LINK: ORIGINAL THREAD IN THE OLD FORUMS UPDATE: Dec 16, 2017: Changed photos to use uploads to the new forums instead of linking to the old forums UPDATE: Nov 26, 2017: Image display within threads still seems to be spotty, bare with me until things stabilize. Pictures seem to be currently reliable because they are directly linking to the pics in the old forums. Emblem Basing Tutorial I credit the original inspiration for this to Cert. I was fishing about for basing ideas for Infinity, when I stumbled upon his hobby blog (now defunct and expired, so no links available (EDIT: Found his mirrored/re-uploaded blog, ... https://waywardwarcor.wordpress.com/2014/07/28/printer-friendly-basing/#more-2077 EDIT EDIT: Annnnnnnnnd it's gone again).He was printing out unit emblems from the Army app on his ink jet and gluing them to wooden discs. It was brilliantly simple while making every mini's base unique and interesting. I stole the idea and evolved it to a point where it satisfies my own fusiness. 100 pixel square (or less) images decompiled from apps were insufficient, so I spent several months of my off-hours redrawing CB's entire catalogue in scaleable vectors. Why all of them, and not just the models I actually have or plan to buy? OCD. That project is documented over in the Fan Art forum, ... https://forum.corvusbelli.com/threads/high-res-logo-vectors.380/ (new forums) http://infinitytheforums.com/forum/topic/25308-3rd-edition-unit-logos-in-vector-format/ (old forums),...with all the emblems available for public use. There's a quick and dirty tutorial in that thread, but I've been meaning to put all this down in greater detail. TOOLS YOU'LL NEED Printed emblems, process as described below 1" (25mm) plywood wood discs 1/8" (3mm) thick. Litko.net sells these if you're a dirty peasant who doesn't own a laser cutter. (UK: Wargame Model Mods - thanks Time Bandit) 1" circle punch or scissors. Put that 50% off Michaels or Hobby Lobby coupon to good use. PVA glue. It's not just for breakfast anymore. Emery board. Pharmacies or other sellers of personal grooming should have these, and they won't judge you. Much. Black permanent marker. If you've been huffing it, make sure there's no boogers. Varnish. Because huffing marker fumes is for lightweights. HOW TO 1. Open up your favourite graphic software, load in your chosen emblems and resize them. I set the emblem to print at 23mm, and add a 1.5mm to 2mm black border around it (this border is important, as I'll explain). Repeat this for each base you intend to make. 2. You can print these out on your own printer, or take the file to Staples or whatever your local copy shop is. Myself, I cram them together and output a single JPEG that is ready to print on at 4'x6' at 300dpi, and then take them to my neighbourhood London Drugs photo counter, and have them print them as quality glossy (CA$0.40 each). This step may take some experimentation depending on the software and printing tools you have available to you. 3. Punch (or cut) out the emblems. A 1" punch is not vital, but it makes your life so much easier for 25mm bases. For 40mm or 55mm basing, they're big enough and infrequent enough that scissors and a steady hand are enough. 4. Turn each emblem upside down. Spread a very thin layer of glue across the wooden disc. 5. Press it glue-side down into the paper, centered. You want glue all the way to the edge, but not oozing out. Let it dry. 6. The paper should be slightly larger than the disc. You can try to trim it with a razorblade, but I find it much simpler to sand it flush. If you can't get emery boards, fine grit sandpaper mounted on a stick will work. I don't advise trying to do it with loose, unsupported sandpaper. Stroke downwards only, not up and down. 7. This will bring the paper and wood flush. This is also one of the reasons for the black border, to leave a bleed area so that the edge of the actual emblem is not sanded away. 8. Once you've sanded all around the disc, chances are you'll have spots of frayed glue fiber, as shown in the pic. Another touch with the sandpaper, or a scrape of a razorblade, will take care of this. 9. Take the black marker and run it along the edge of the disc, colouring the white paper edge and the wood. This is another purpose of the black border, as some of the ink may bleed into the paper, which the border obscures. Also, it helps fool the eye. It's virtually impossible to get the emblem perfectly centered, and the extra 3mm of blackness when viewed at any angle camouflages any imperfection there. 10. Photo paper is comparatively delicate, easily picking up and retaining grime. Hit it with your preferred varnish. I use gloss varnish from a generic rattle can, and I don't bother with the conventional advice of multiple thin coats. I apply it thick enough for the varnish to pool. Be mindful of dust or fibers, a toothpick or knife tip can pick them out of the liquid varnish if need be (I usually place the freshly varnished piece in a clean box to guard against debris in the air while it's wet). Let it dry (I give it a good couple of days, to fully cure and harden). 11. Now for the mini. You can try to glue it on, but realistically you want it pinned. There's nothing I can really add to the subject of pinning metal minis that hasn't been said many times elsewhere, but here's a tip: find a divider from a school kid's geometry set. 12. Use the divider to precisely measure the spacing of the pins on the mini, then jam the divider into the base to create pilot holes for a hobby drill. Perfectly positioned minis and perfectly spaced holes. BONUS This is also the process I use for creating my own tokens (check out ToadChild's token sheet generator here: http://inf-dice.ghostlords.com/markers/)
