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Prepping, priming & painting

Discussion in 'New Users' started by Context, Aug 24, 2019.

  1. Context

    Context Member

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    Not sure if this is the right place for this so if not let me know and I’ll move it.

    It’s been a while since I’ve worked with metal miniatures (last time was the first release of the lord of the rings, 15 years or so ago). Can anyone give advice on general prep, what primers they’re using and favoured paint range? I’m UK based for reference.
     
  2. Alphz

    Alphz Kuang Shi Vet. Retired.

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    A few key things which I've found make life easier;

    1. Wash the minis in some warm water and a little soap. Scrub with an old toothbrush. Rinse.

    2. Score/file the joint surfaces and dry fit to check the fit and make sure there aren't any rogue bumps or flash fouling up the connection.

    3. Use new super glue. I find super glue ages and the old stuff will take forever to set.
    I've heard of people using accelerator to extend the life on super glue. But use with caution!

    I prime with vallejo - their specific primer series and find it really good. Currently brushing on. It kind of shrinks when it dries so best to do 2-3 light coats to maximise detail retention.

    After that I paint mainly with vallejo with a little army painter and citadel. Mainly I think it comes down to what you can get good access to is most important. The ranges with dropper bottles (eg. vallejo) are so much nicer to use and don't tend to dry out.
     
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  3. Alfy

    Alfy Well-Known Member

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    I use pretty much exactly he same method as Alphz, and the same paints. I’ve started adding Scales75 to my list of paints: they work really well to get a truly matte look. I’ve stopped using Army Painter for the most part, because their coverage is poor for many of their colors.

    For filling gaps, take a look at Milliput. It’s like green stuff (you mix two components and the result will harden), but you can easily make “Milliput milk” out of it. Just mix the stuff in the shape of a really tiny bowl, put water in it and mix with a brush. The resulting white liquid is really easy to pour in small gaps, and it’s easy to file or drill once set. I’m mentioning this because I found it a tad difficult to deal with the really tiny flaws in these 28mm minis.
     
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  4. Context

    Context Member

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    Thanks both, some very good info there. I have a large range of citadel paint but as you mentioned the non dropper bottle is a real pain. I’m actually going to a hobby store that stocks Vallejo tomorrow so will have to pick some stuff up to try. Milliput also seems quite easy to source so I’ll try that as well now that my stock of green stuff has hardened beyond use.

    Has anyone tried the new games workshop contrast sprays on infinity miniatures yet? I’ve been getting some really good results on GW plastics with the wraithbone but not sure I wanna risk it on metal...
     
  5. Alfy

    Alfy Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean the Contrast Primers of the Contrast Paints? I haven’t tried the primers, but I assume they work fine. The only difference in the formula is the mix of blue or yellow, supposedly because titane molecules (that give you the white) are too big to give the smooth surface required by Contrast paints (it’s a big joke, as many YouTube videos can attest.

    The paints, on the other hand, I’ve tried once and dropped immediately for Infinity minis. Too many flat surfaces and panels, the Contrast paints really don’t behave well on these.
     
  6. Section9

    Section9 Well-Known Member

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    I actually use artist's acrylic gesso, mixed about 1:1 with matte medium and brushed on, for priming. Dries really, really thin so you don't lose any details. It can also be airbrushed on, but I don't have an airbrush. Good for working when it's too cold for rattlecans, which is about half my year.

    I use just about every paint out there. Lots of Vallejo Model Color, some Model Air (mostly the metallics). Reaper Master Series fleshtone triads, as well as the P3 fleshtones. Some GW, the techical paints are excellent, as are the basing textures. Also have some various other paints, but I don't use them for Infinity, like the Cote d'Arms horse colors.
     
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  7. FireFangs

    FireFangs Space Oni

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    I used the red contrast paint on a Bolt helmet. It works good but I found that it's best to go a tone lighter than your intended result as the contrast paint is darker when it dries.

    Otherwise, I'm slowly moving to Vallejo. Currently it's for skin tones and a few colors but it's what I buy when I need new ones. Otherise I'm mostly Army painter since it's what I started with.