I know its unheard of , but I'm out of models to paint. All the models I plan on playing with are painted and based. Some of them are fairly old and my style has changed a bit. Currently when I strip paint I soak them in Easy Off for a night then use a cheap toothbrush to brush it off. I also use my old real tooth brushed because its got a rubber back which I find grabs the paint and pull is it off a bit better than the brisels do What does everyone else use to strip models?
Acetone. The technical, paint-remover one from a hardware store (not the finger polish remover one form a cosmetics store), if I can get away with it (all-metal models). Technical (denaturated) alcohol, if not, .e. if there's plastic included and I don't want it destroyed. Then old toothbrush, and various scraping tools to pick the remaints of paint form different nooks and cranies.
Yup, acetone is the way forwards for metal models, be warned that it will also destroy the plastic base and remove the superglue. Even nail varnish remover can work, I used Boots own brand which is about £1 a bottle and the paint can be scrubbed off within an hour, it's a little nicer on the skin than industrial acetone (though gloves are still probably a good idea). Make sure not to get acetone-free remover though, that stuff tends to be useless. I've also heard excellent things about Bio-Strip, it's not as fast but it is safe to use on resin and plastic.
There is a pretty efficient AND cheap product that works. In France we find it under the Glanzer brand (just be sure to get the green bottle). I think it is known as Emsal in some countries. This is initially used to clean the floor and specifically to remove layers of other products so the floor material woes raw. It works with everything (plastic, metal, resin...) but obviously a test is always better before treating a full army. I does not sting (it smeel a bit but just like any floor cleaner), it could be disposed as any other everyday use products. It is recommended to put it in a glass container as it will sip through some plastic ones. Jam pots are great as you could close them so no odor and reduced risks if it fell. You can reuse it as long as you want until there is too much removed paint in it (you can even filter it but it's already so cheap...) Most of time, 5 minutes is enough to get most of paint removed. In worst cases, just use an old toothbrush to clean the recesses or have your minis stay for 24h.
Denaturated alcohol will break superglue too, though not as efficently as acetone does. Plastic (and, I guess, resin - or at least most of these) parts are going to be safe. It will, however, completely destroy rare earths magnets, solving them into piles of magnetic, corroded dust. As you've mentioned, there's a risk of running into acetone-free nail polish remover. The other downside tends to be the price. I can get half a liter of industrial acetone at a hardware store for roughly the same money that would get me 3x 10ml bottles of cheal, acetone-based nail polish removerfrom the cosmetics store. Personally I handle my models with tweezers until I have the acetone all washed down off them.
I simply use nailpolish remover. Works perfectly fine and is cheap. Toss the minis in a bowl, throw some nailpolish romover on it. I usually add some water so it doesnt smell that much, but works better when pure. Leave it there for a couple of hours, use an old tooth brush to remove the left overs. Realize you have used your actual tooth brush. Go buy a new tooth brush.
Mostly alcohol when painted with acrylics and similar. Acetone if the paint was stronger. It seems to be famous. The manufacturer uses multiple brands, I remember seeing Frosch/Froggy around here. Time to check if they sell the decapants too. (Déjà vu...) Alcohol destroys nickel plating? Uh? Or are some magnets "plated" with paint? Maybe the plating had cracks and the "wetness" made the alcohol get in? They are compressed dust, but they need "help" to start failing like that.
I've had pretty good results with rubbing alcohol and a good scrub, although it will also eat away at any superglue that was used, so you may have to do some re-gluing...
isopropyl alcohol will strip acrylic paints. So will methylated spirits (ethanol/methanol blend.) Acetone will strip enamels back to bare metal, dissolve superglue and if you leave the plastic in there long enough, turn it into goo.
Yup, we had that conversation before. I don't know why that happened, I am completely dumb when it comes to nickel plating and rare-earth magnets. I have, however, left a magnet inside the lid of a jar I used to clean models with, and a few days later I found it turned into aforementioned pile of magnetic dust.
Brake fluid - you should be able to get it no matter where on globe you are. Put minis in a jar, pour fluid over them, close and leave for a night. Scrub paint on next day. It's harmless for plastic minis and even leaves greenstuff intact. Remember to check you country's hazardous waste regulations before disposal. Previously I was using Nitro. It's acetone/toulene mix that works miracles on metal minis but melts plastic ones. Its also so toxic and harmfull its too dangerous.
On a slightly less hazardous level, Fairy Power Spray kitchen cleaner is brilliant at paint stripping. just dunk the model in for half an hour and a light paintbrush rub. I used to use Dettol but thats an overnight dunk.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Biostrip-S...93799&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=biostrip+20&psc=1 If you can get it in your locale, you just slather it on the model and it's down to bare metal/plastic in a matter of hours after a scrub with a toothbrush, it's also not particularly hard to dispose of as it can be dumped down the sink. I've done dettol, fairy power spray, nail polish remover etc and I can honestly say this has become my go-to for paint removal. For reference (sorry it's not on infinity models, but these are the only pics I had): Spoiler: Spoilered cos images Before: Some minis I painted when I was 10, so 20-year-old paintjob done with cheap craft brushes, ultra-heavy with the primer and thick globs of undiluted boltgun metal everywhere After: That's after a 2-hour soak in Biostrip20 and a scrub with a toothbrush in hot soapy water, no damage to plastic either EDIT: Updated the image links, can someone let me know if it's working?
