Currently, I'm tempted to assemble the AW Undertown buildings I ended up owning... As it's the first time I'd be building scenery, I have questions! :) First of all: I've heard that MDF buildings need to be varnished. So, what should I varnish them with? Could I use the same varnish I use for the minis, i.e. Vallejo's polyurethane varnish? Does it change anything that the Undertown buildings are pre-painted? When varnishing, how many coats should I apply - one, two, more..? Also, these buildings have some acrylic bits, like transparent doors etc. The instructions say I should varnish the building before installing these, but is it really necessary? I varnish stuff with a brush, so I maybe the acrylics bits could be installed first, then I'd just varnish the building with the brush carefully? Or is it a bad idea? Finally, what about stuff like photoprints, graffiti transfers etc.? Should they glued on / applied before or after varnishing? If before, then should they be varnished?
I never varnished my MDF Buildings. MDF feels a little bit "sticky" after using spray colours. That is because of the perspiration of the adhesive that is used in the production of MDF (MDF is glued fibres, so you need a lot of glue to make it solid :) ). I do not think that varnishing cures that perspiration problem, in my experience only time cures it. My scenery is about 2-3 years old and the sticky feel is gone. I own lots of Bandua and even more Systema Gaming Scenery. I basecoat the buildings using Molotov Aerosolfree Spraycans (a bit more expensive but gives a little more rougher surface where additional paints better stick to) and then give it another go with the desired color.
I'm not sure if they had to be varnished but personally I always varnish all my terrain pieces. I bought big acrylic varnish can in artistic supply store and I'm still using it after varnishing terrains for about half of the gaming table. I recommend varnishing terrains at the end, after applying all extra pigments, graffiti transfers, etc. I would leave the acrylic parts not glued though and I'd suggest adding them after the varnishing part (if it's possible, if not I'd use blue tac or liquid mask to cover the acrylics). So far I varnish only one building with acrylic parts on and they become semitransparent and colour go a bit muted. I guess it might vary depending on the varnish though,
I've known people to varnish (or hairspray) MDF before painting to seal the wood, if you're using standard airbrush paints or rattle cans rather than primer then unsealed MDF can just soak it up.
Dear lord, this! I used an entire can of Testor's Flat Red spray in order to get even coverage on the Warsenal Torii gate, and used ~5 Krylon cans on the huge Impudent Mortal pool house. "Only" used 5 cans because I was painting the outside a dull khaki and was OK with slightly uneven coverage. Getting the inside of the building evenly painted white to reflect some light through the acrylic took one entire can for every two towers. I would want to spray seal any of the photoprints. Don't get any sealer on the acrylic!
Hm. I know it may be a ridiculous idea, but what if I plan on varnishing with a brush? Would anything happen to the acrylic bits, if I varnish the walls around them, but not the acrylics themselves? Would that be okay - or is like with the CA glue and acrylics, with even the fumes being harmful to the acrylics?
I think it's that you'll frost/fog and maybe discolour the acrylics if you get sealer on them. But that's why some clever person invented masking tape!
If you are varnishing the walls around with a brush it should be fine. I don't think the "fumes" would do any harm to acrylic parts.
Depends on what kind of sealer. If it's oil-based (enamel), the solvents will do ugly things to the acrylic. Lacquer will do ugly things to the acrylic. Polyurethane may do ugly things. Clear acrylic sealer should be safe, but ...
Man, every time I drop in on these threads... (not directed at you, Varsovian) 1-Seal MDF with sanding sealer ( it's just thick lacquer. It's available at your local DIY.) Keep it off the acrylics. 2-If it dries rough... well, sand it. 180 grit to 240 grit ought to do it. 3-Enjoy your easy to paint, and highly unlikely to warp MDF terrain. In a pinch, one can use a solvent based primer. However, yeah, skip this and the associated head-aches etc. and just get the sanding sealer. Don't forget to seal the edges too, if they are exposed. Seriously. Seal the edges.
And then seal the edges again. Most of the trouble I had with that torii gate was the edges sucking up all the paint.
You can polish superglue fogging off polymethyl methacrylate sheeting with a silver or brass polish and a bit of elbow grease.
Wait, wasn't the Undertown scenery prepainted? If not, Antenociti himself recommends white Zinnser's shellac.
