@Usashi, your stuff looks great, my "clones" of your MAS buildings are currently waiting for paint. Still need to getting the Losblok stuff ready to go then some warsenal stuff to finish the main parts of the table.
If you already have it back together and there's no hole in the bottom of the statue, don't worry about it. If there is a hole in the bottom, though, I'd still fill the statue with foam. Just make absolutely sure you have low-expansion foam (or even NO-expansion foam), because the gap-filling foam will try to break the statue!
Thanks for the tips. Well recently I've injected some resin into those rubber key chains (I want to add them on top of pulpibeer and sushi signs), so it might be a good idea to drill a hole under the Buddha and inject some resin as well. @Gera good luck with your project. I'll gladly see the finall results ;) I still have another MAS building to convert as well...
@Gera this one. Actually I haven't done a thing since taking that photo. Masking windows is pain in the arse and I wish I haven't glued all of them. Still I want to add same styled rooftops as I did with L shaped building.
I'm working on the MAS car set and today I got a nasty surprise after removing masks on the sport car. The car was washed, primed and I even varnished wind shield before applying next layers. Still I removed everything including primer in one go. Does anyone had similar experiences using GW corax white on resin?
I had a similar problem on a resin model. Had spent way too much time on the windows, and ended up just painting them black after that.. ruined the whole model :( Keep it up though, the others look great!
What masking agent were you using? I've heard nothing but bad words about Vallejo masking fluid (their paint ranges are fine but I stand by Maskol for liquid masks and haven't had any issues in almost 25 years - since I got put onto it). Did you de-shine the resin first? I've found MAS resin needs a fine grit sandpaper rub-down in order to get even an ETCH PRIMER to adhere to it. (I've seen so many of their resin walls get the whole "bubbly paint" effect because of this. ). I tried toothpaste first off (it's a fine abrasive cream, and you can use it to polish scratches out of certain materials or take the shine/mould release off other resins) but they still needed a 2400 grit debuff to add enough tooth to get that primer to take - and then nothing would lift the primer. Not even tape.
Cheers guys, thank you for some resin tips. @chromedog nowadays I'm using vallejo liquid but I did use maskol before. I'm only using liquid masks for terrain painting and to be honest I don't see much difference between them. In this case it was more related to primer or me not cleaning the model itself. I just cleaned mold lines and and polished those areas with a sand paper but not the whole model. The car was then cleaned with a toothbrush and soap. It worked fine on all other cars, I'm not really sure why it failed on this one :/. Anyway I take your advice when I start working on azure dragon as I definitely don't want to screw that model...
I bought a Sonic cleaner for my air brush and its perfect for my mini's to. Bit of dish soap and hot water gets rid of lots of little bits. I don't even use a tooth brush now. After getting a thumb blister while cleaning up a whole bunch at once, I certainly don't miss the process.
I actually use Formula 409 Orange as mold-release remover (well, mix of 409 and hot water). Soak resin in it for a day, scrub with a nylon nail brush (the kind you use to get the dirt out from under your fingernails!), throw it back into a mix of hot water and 409 for a day. Repeat that for a week, you're done when the model feels slightly rough like a stone. Dry very well (leave outside in the sun for a day). prime. Paint.
wow a whole week of cleaning to get paint on your models, is that not un economic to do. i think 99% of the people here have no patience for that long. ;)
That's specifically for resin models, and you're only doing things for 5-10 minutes a day, then letting it sit. So you really need a space to store that more than a space to work. I kept the tub with models in it on top of the washing machine. Less stressful to wait for a week to remove all the mold release than have the nightmare of paint not sticking halfway through! Metal models you can jump right in and paint.
Another update. I was finally able to finish painting all MAS cars. In the end I used same the same colour changing paint on the sport car. I also applied 2 layers of gloss varnish on "shiny" parts like windows and lights. It's not really visible on the picture but the high contrast between matt and gloss elements looks really good on the table. I must add some glossy elements on other terrain pieces. Also I painted vertical 3D billboards and assembled and primed horizontal ones. Like with all prototypes, I need to improve few things. Now I'm working on MAS's Kokkyo 3 wall set as a next project.
Fantastic. The addition of the holo-boards is really interesting, and you've done a great job on everything.
