This phenomenon of saws, lasers, etc. (and the allowance for thickness of removed material/width of cut) is called "kerf" btw. Shared both because it's a fun word, and just in case you ever encounter it in tool settings or something.
Great job on this Beasthunter :) I already commented on FB (the one guy nagging about the size of harpoon gun :P ) I also like to work on such conversions and about cutting, I recommend making your own, very thin saw - Conversion thread! what've you got going on? | Page 89 | Corvus Belli Community Forum PozdRawiam / Greetings
Precisely! :) Old modeller's trick - use a half of a razor and make the notches with a triangular file. Works really good. Helped me with many conversions. PozdRawiam / Greetings
While the modified-razor above would probably do just as good a job, I've long liked photoetch saws for this kind of thing. Tamiya does a set that fold up to give a thick enough 'tang' to hold in their hobby-saw handle (which is otherwise far too thick): https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/Photo-Etched-Craft-Saw.html And AK Interactive go a step further and sell a similar set with a handle: https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/PHOTO-ETCHED-SAW-SET.html#gallery_start (Although for years I've used an old Hasegawa panel-line scribing set which isn't even meant to separate pieces, let alone saw through metal, but still did a perfectly good job with a bit of care!) The advantage of this kind of saw - and the modified-razor option above - is not just that the blade is paper-thin, but also that the teeth don't have 'set'. Normally saw teeth are bent slightly to alternating sides, in order that the kerf they cut is a bit wider than the saw and the saw blade doesn't bind in the cut. So saws like these without set have all the teeth fully in-line with the flat of the blade, cut the thinnest possible kerf... but you do have to be careful to keep them perfectly straight in both axes because they bind very easily as a result!
I've used candle wax (Those candle nubs that would burn too low if you left them in the holders ...), soap, WD-40 ... all help to lubricate the blade and reduce the binding (and they all worked well with metal OR resin chunks that I was sawing off.)
Just don't use graphite powder inside a spray booth. The exhaust fan won't like it. Voice of experience.
Finished up a conversion of a Veteran Kazak with Boarding Shotgun. I kind of got on a kick of using bits of the base tab as the superstructure for converting weapons.
Finished up my conversion of Dr Worm, who has been deeply embedded with the Morat Aggression Force and has taken on some of their customs.
So not really a conversion, but considering the news CB has put out, I got the jump on making a Rem Racer. Working on getting it cast as part of the swag for Rose City Raid 5. I have only made a few minis in 3D, so generally the newest one is always my favorite, but I think this one warrants it.
Dude, stop everything you're doing right now and run, not walk to watch Cowboy Bebop! Yes! Even stop working, THIS IS IMPORTANT!
