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Monkeysloth's Cavilcade of Infinity Terrain -- Subway entrance Model Release

Discussion in 'Scenery' started by Monkeysloth, Nov 23, 2017.

  1. Red Harvest

    Red Harvest Slamdancing the Cosmopolis

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    Using a bus is not such a bad idea, considering how reliable the Metro subway is these days...:disappointed: Hopefully no one throws a cup full of urine at that bus's driver. (true story.)

    The bus is very nice. A shipping container that is not a shipping container. Perfect Infinity terrain. Everything looks so good. Excellent work Monkeysloth.

    How are you planning to handle the escalators in the subway station?
     
  2. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Never been to DC so I've never had, from what I've heard from friends that live out there, the pleasant experience if trying to get anywhere out there. Worst public transportation I've been on is Paris's. Probably the closest you can get to 1980s NYC these days. Last time I was on a public bus was Denmark maybe 5 years ago and it was about what you expect from a bus.

    Also I'm quite happy to see we can edit titles, not sure when that got added in but I've already started using that.

    Right now I'm looking at printing a base that slots into the bottom of what you're already seen mocked up via some pegs. I did some searching of subway entrances the other day and while it's not common there are instances where there are a few steps up then right down stairs so I'll be doing the same until I get a board piece with a hole as I don't think it would look that good without some type of actual decent (the width of the structure is 18cm).
     
  3. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Speaking of which here they are. The orange cylinder is 25mmx25xmmx32mm. You can see 3 vertical slots on the sides of the base structure, that's where these will connect in. Also planning on doing the slide in door\wall for those that done want the escalators and those 3 slots will allow someone to choose the depth of the cover provided. At least that's the theory anyway.

    [​IMG]

    They're an 8-9 hour print so I'll get that going tomorrow morning as right now the structure base is printing (transparent part) and the top is already done.

    Edit: Here's a front view of the complete piece
    [​IMG]

    and an isometric view since it was inspired by an isometric game.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #23 Monkeysloth, Jan 20, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018
  4. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Figured since I was showing of the modeling part I'd show off the finished test prints.

    First off sorry for the messy table, doing some cleaning and reorganizing of the room and I'm only about half done.

    Over all it came out quite well but there are somethings that needed to change.

    [​IMG]

    First up was the sign that slots in the front. Pegs were too large so that's already been reprinted and working great now. Sticks in well enough that you don't have to save them but pops right out so if you wanted to have different signs for different boards (say different faction based cities) just print out extra of these (and they only take about an hour).

    The Interior printing was a mixed bag of sorts. The escalator rails and the access hatches printed great but a lot of the detail didn't come in and the side pegs, to slot into the base, were too thick. So I've adjusted them and doing a new print. You'll notice that the surface looks really bad -- that's because I did a faster print with less layers on the surface so it's not as smooth. The one I'm printing now should look better (but also taking about 2 hours longer).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And lastly you might have noticed from the first print but the top has some really bad warping. That's what I get for printing something that big without a brim.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It's also being reprinted on my second printer (now that I have that back up and running). Hopefully the brim works, it's a bunch of plastic on the outside to help a piece stick in place, as a raft, plastic structure underneath print to do the same, would be a lot of wasted plastic for something this big.
     
  5. Red Harvest

    Red Harvest Slamdancing the Cosmopolis

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    Amusingly, I am familiar with the subways of New York City in the mid to late '80's. Man, in the summer...

    Okay, back to the station. Looks like you need to increase the height of the interior. Maybe add another layer that you can stack?
     
  6. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    I can always ad another stair, each one is 2.5mm.
     
  7. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    32mm for cylinder height? It should be 40. Mostly because miniatures are taller than 32 and then the base.

    As for roof planning, I would have used a multipart approach. Just like the walls is one part that saves a lot by leaving the roof out, you could have used a square frame for the bottom of the roof, then another for the middle, and finally a flat part. Or at least the roof in two, if you don't want a seam from flat to middle.
     
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  8. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Ya, you're right. I'm not even taking into account base height at 32mm.

    The main reason the roof is separate from the walls is a printer couldn't print that without supports which tend to make a really rough print surface so it's better to break it up into multiple parts that can be printed without the need of them. It wouldn't be much effort to break up what I have into smaller parts, though it's not much more cost wise to print the whole top (it's probably $3 in plastic total) so instead of a modular piece that would need pegs to align correctly (and thus just be there in the corners being dumb when only using half the roof) maybe just have two different files: one the full roof and one the half roof?
     
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  9. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    Yes, I know about supports, and that is why I suggested splitting the roof in two or three. Speed and look. Probably making the main walls hollow would help too (no idea how much fill you used).

    Another option for things that require a lot of support is printing upside down, so there is no support. In this case you can also go with "on the back", assuming you don't mind the layers being that way. But in both cases you get one visible surface to be in the printer bed. *head-scratch*

    In the end, it depends a lot in how much postprocessing you want to do (like gluing the bent part in place and filling the gap).
     
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  10. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    My apologies, I tend to over explain for the people following along, never know what people know even if they're not actually in the discussion.

    I thought about just printing it on it's back -- that would work just fine but would be like a 20 hour print. I should be able to get these two parts to print well.

    So question for people. Looking at a 40mm height cylinder on top of the interior stairs\platform there's only a few MM between that and the top of the figure (walls are 49mm, interior platform is 5mm) so how much height should I have between the figure and the celling for easy play? 5mm, 10mm? is the 4 plenty?
     
    #30 Monkeysloth, Jan 22, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
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  11. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    You can always print a cylinder and use it for those S2 models that have weapons or arms outside the volume. *grin*

    No top or bottom, just the external wall. Maybe with three grooves for LoF (front and both sides).
     
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  12. Red Harvest

    Red Harvest Slamdancing the Cosmopolis

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    Yeah, I meant print a section to put between the bottom section and the ceiling. I suggest a total height of 60mm to 70mm for the interior, measured from the top of the stair section to the underside of the ceiling. This is ~10' -12' in scale, and gives room for people to get their hands, or part of their hand inside. Makes for ease of use, and really is tall enough for almost any mini, except a TAG.
     
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  13. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    seams 60mm would be best at minimum if you want S6 figures to fit in Dog warrior is about 56mm according to my calipers. So 65mm with the interior included. I'll look at some 70mm in mock up and see if I like the proportions and print a new wall section overnight.

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    No dogs allowed. And keep the current height. *wink*
     
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  15. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    No doggos allowed. Promise, no bamboozles.

    So here's a new base print that's 65mm tall. As you can see the dog warrior doesn't fit.
    [​IMG]

    I think I'd like the look of a 60mm height wall but it's clear that lots of models wouldn't even fit. So I'll probably make a smaller wall set and have both,

    [​IMG]

    And I finally got a good print for the top. Needed to use glue but it's a great fit. The curve at the ends are from my cleaning the brim off.

    [​IMG]

    Lastly I moved the interior to my second printer and it came out great, not sure why the first printer had issues with it.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Probably the last update on this for a bit as I'm going to be out of town Thursday - Sunday and I'm pretty much at the painting phase which I'm not sure how long it will take me. Exterior should go pretty quickly but interior will probably slow me down a bit as I'll need to do some masking and such.

    First off I made the graphics for the subway ticker for the Sakuramachi Ginza line, pretty sure that have that city in Human Sphere but it's the JSA capital in the RPG and I just went with Ginza as everyone needs an entertainment\shopping district. For some reason they look about half size but when I print to PDF they look fine so I'll be printing some this week and seeing how it goes. But Photoshop and Illustrator say they're the same dimensions as in Tinkercad. I'm going to use the second one I think but made one with some English as clearly YuJing would place that on their signs....

    [​IMG]

    Also going to link this here so I don't loose it but I found a nice kanji pixel font. Others might find it to be of use as well.

    I also made a stencil for a metro logo that would go in the center part of the top. There's not much room there so they're tiny but the plotter should be able to cut them.

    [​IMG]
    And I finally threw together the door insert. Not terribly exciting as it's just doors. I was debating making two instead of three and having more defined windows. Let me know what you think.

    [​IMG]
     
    #36 Monkeysloth, Jan 23, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2018
  17. xagroth

    xagroth Mournful Echo

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    I wouldn't place doors at all, it will just "close" the item so no one gets inside at all.
     
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  18. Red Harvest

    Red Harvest Slamdancing the Cosmopolis

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    Much better. I've learned that one should never be afraid to go big with terrain. So much of what people use is really too small. And bigger pieces make for quicker table set-up. One just needs a bit more scatter.

    That interior back wall cries out for some kind of signage. Advertisements, or Information boards about train schedules, or some such. I vote no doors.

    Enjoy the LVO. I have a few friends who have gone for the past few years, and they've really had a blast. Sadly, they are still 40k players. Well, one Malifaux player.
     
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  19. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    I'm not planning on personally using the doors. There's going to be a "release" of this on a website for free models for printing, I've included the doors for those that would like to use this but don't like the open version. I'm just doing some extra work for the fun of it even though I don't plan on using it. The soda coolers I did before this got a pretty good reception on several 3d printing for gaming groups I'm in so I'm hoping this, with it's options, will have the same.

    Ya, size is a balance for sure and a lot of people go smaller generally because it costs less per piece, which if you're not making yourself is a factor even if you need more -- it allows for an easier slow buildup. And that some things would be just too large on a board and maybe not be interesting. An average fast food restaurant would be what? Around 1 foot square in scale?

    When I went into this I did a dumb things and designed to look in game (the Shadowrun one) and not for infinity which is why I had an odd internal height of 49mm. Poor planning on my part.

    I have some add screens\tvs from Antinociti I'm planning on using. Have a bunch of MDF addons I'm looking through and debating if I want to design some building add ons like fuseboxes and such and print or use what I have. But I am planning on adding some stuff to the inside and outside.

    I've never been but I'm not going to play, I'm just a filthy casual with this game, but instead taking a bunch of the painting classes. Really haven't brush painted in over 2 years after spending so much time on terrain (which sadly enough I really don't have as much as I should to show for that time) and I wanted to get back into this year. There's a few 3 hour long classes with lots of hands on to kind of get me back in the groove I'm hoping and maybe I'll finally learn how to blend highlights better which was always my bane.

    I'll probably swing by the infinity tables and observe before the start of the Bostria presentation as no matter the mission me and my friends play it always turns into total annihilation as that's just "easier" then going for objectives (and we don't even use specialists) and it would be interesting to see how a game is supposed to flow.
     
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  20. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    Not exactly... they go with tiny things in "upsized" scale. Which is worse, as all looks like toys. Your big buildings look great because they have the right size for the stairs, doors and so on.

    Square of 1 foot, quick scale maths, 30 cm, 15 m, 225 m² surface, a small business (or a big home in many countries). Easy to make interesting (thinking zombie movie helps): kitchen zone with things half destroyed and out of place (barricades, but leaving enough to put miniatures), table zone with multiple piles of tables (barricades and again layout to let miniatures pass), cash registers etc as zone separator (more cover).

    49mm is fine if you want to limit access to S2 and similar, which is a nice tactical obstacle. If you want everthing to fit, yes, you have to deform it. At some point that will become obvious. The escalators are a bit weird already (never seen ones so wide), but get a pass because the height looks ok when the miniature is near (we could say the extra width is to fit clumsy robots and give extra room when just humans).
     
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