1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Hemos actualizado nuestra PolĂ­tica de Privacidad acorde con la nueva RGPD. +Info // We've updated our Privacy Policy to comply with the GDPR. +Info
    Dismiss Notice

IJW's Infinitely Long Painting Thread

Discussion in 'Miniatures' started by ijw, Nov 27, 2017.

  1. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    This is going to take a while, but here's all the photos from my old painting thread on the previous forum. Hopefully this will prompt me to add the stuff that's been painted since that thread was last updated... :tearsofjoy:



    October 2010

    After buying a Mag Guard, Guges Guijia and a few other bits and pieces over the last couple of years, I've finally sat down and ordered an actual Infinity force, courtesy of Maelstrom:

    [​IMG]

    About 180 points plus I've got some some old Kryomek Helcats to proxy as Zonds - the only CB droids that I'm not keen on, plus some Epic Eldar Knights as extra Zondbots.

    I'll keep this thread updated with progress but don't expect it to happen very often, I'm notoriously slow at putting models together... and still need to choose a colour scheme and painting style!


    The Lunokhod cleaned up ready for assembly:

    [​IMG]

    Now I have to decide on the paint scheme/style because I don't think a white undercoat/base colour/shading approach is going to work very well once those side pieces are glued on...

    [​IMG]


    Pinning time - to be really thorough, two pins on the turbine section:

    [​IMG]


    And corresponding holes in the main body:

    [​IMG]


    I didn't get the holes in the body in exactly the right place, so the start of the body holes were drilled out very slightly larger which actually makes it even stronger as the pins bend into place as they are pushed into place.

    [​IMG]


    As the kit comes with two weapon loadouts I'm magnetising the weapon mount with 2x1mm magnets. Here you can see a magnet glued in place in the body and a hole ready to take a magnet in the weapon assembly:

    [​IMG]

    2mm magnets is probably overkill for a piece this small, but I've mislaid the 1mm ones and it never hurts to use ones that are stronger than you think you'll need...

    Pinning the tailfin onto the turbine section is going to be fun, but first I need to find some thinner wire, paperclips are too thick.


    Ooh, I'd forgotten how much fun it is working with 0.5mm drill bits. [​IMG]


    Eek! So happy I'm using a mini bench drill for this and not trying to do it hand-held or with a pin vice!

    [​IMG]


    With a paperclip for scale:

    [​IMG]


    Slightly separated to show the pin:

    [​IMG]

    I won't be gluing the tailfin in place until all drilling is done for the side pieces. I couldn't find my fine wire supply so the Mag Guard whip aerial is now 5mm shorter...


    Pins for the side units:

    [​IMG]


    The whole lot (side part front holes not drilled yet):

    [​IMG]


    And front view:

    [​IMG]


    The legs and main body aren't glued at this point but there is a single long pin running through the crossed legs and up into the body. The pin sticking out of the bottom may be removed, but it may also end up going into the base and be hidden by some shrubbery.


    The big base is just to make it easier to move around while unglued.

    The other weapon assembly still needs magnetising as well.
     
    #1 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Section9 and taylor like this.
  2. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Legs still not glued as I'm waiting on the urban bases from (third-party), but here it is so far:

    [​IMG]

    Plus the Clockmaker in the background, held together with blu-tack.

    Clockmaker cleaned up:

    [​IMG]


    The arms should be OK without pins on this one, with a bit of help from some cross-hatched scoring on the contact areas:

    [​IMG]



    I'll see if this clip works for holding the model during painting. The tab has mostly been removed to form a couple of pins for the base.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, got a bit more done this evening. Crazy Koala:

    [​IMG]



    In this one I took a photo before drilling, to show the round area filed flat on the top and a small hole made with a compass so that the drill will 'bite' in the right place instead of skidding around:

    [​IMG]



    Plus one of the Zondbots, this time just glued with no pinning. I'll see how the glued joints survive before doing the second one.

    [​IMG]


    Another engineer:

    [​IMG]

    I forgot to order 25mm bases along with the large one so will have to cobble together some urban ones, for this model I'll try adding a hatch with wires trailing out.



    Some reference material for the Tomcat Engineer base:

    [​IMG]

    I just happened to spot this in the supermarket...


    Hatch base ingredients: blank base, thin plasticard.

    [​IMG]


    First quarter the plasticard, chamfer the joining edges slightly and then cut out a gap for the hatch - don't worry if this is a bit rough.

    [​IMG]


    Hatch with a little bit of scrap underneath:

    [​IMG]


    Plus some wires:

    [​IMG]



    Plasticard glued onto the base:

    [​IMG]


    Place some wires in the hole:

    [​IMG]


    Add the hatch, now with some holes in the corners and for full insanity some plasticard rod files down to make screws:

    [​IMG]


    With Engineer for scale:

    [​IMG]

    Excess plasticard trimmed off to make it round again, and holes for the trimmed tab on the model:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Plus Engineer:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I'm quite pleased with how this has come out, really gives the feel of someone has been interrupted in the middle of hacking into something they shouldn't be...
     
    #2 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Section9 and xagroth like this.
  3. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Resin bases, next to the scratch-built plasticard one for reference:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Along with some large stone flagging-embossed plasticard this should do me plenty of figures on 25mm bases. The 40mm and large oval (third-party) bases shipped yesterday.


    Clockmaker on resin base. Much fun was had filing the bottoms of the trousers so that they looked like they were actually resting on the surface. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    Next, embossed plastic and a regular base on the way for one of the Koalas:

    [​IMG]


    Embossed plasticard cut roughly to shape after gluing:

    [​IMG]



    And trimmed more accurately with a scalpel:

    [​IMG]



    After redrilling the holes in the base from underneath and gluing in place:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Zondbot stepping up onto the pavement. This involved gently bending the right ankle so that the foot would sit fairly flat, and then like the Clockmaker some file-work on the bottom of the foot to get a good fit with the pavement.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    The hole for the left foot pin might need a tiny bit of filler.


    I'm saving the last 25mm pavement base for the Interventor Hacker, the other Koala and the other Zondbot will be on embossed plasticard.

    Decided to put another model together, the Interventor Hacker.

    Parts cleaned up and holes ready for pinning - having learned from snapping off one of the Clockmaker's arms while filing down his foot I've done all the drilling and filing before gluing anything together.

    The contact points on the arms aren't as good as the Clockmaker or Tomcat Engineer so there are holes drilled into the shoulders.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    The hacking hand comes with the fingers all splayed out flat and looks a bit silly, I've tried bending the fingers so it looks like he's typing:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    I may try and drill a tiny hole in the palm to put in a small bit of metal so that I can add one of the clear hacker printouts with a magnet and see how it looks.

    Well, that was fun. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    'Hacker need Brainz!'

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    A couple of shots where he doesn't look quite so much like a zombie:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    If you look closely at the last photo you'll spot that I eventually drilled all the way through the shoulder by mistake, so some filler is needed there...

    The magnetised hologram actually works quite well, and has the added bonus of making him look less like a zombie.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Bad pun time - as the Lieutenant, he's truly the 'brainz!' of the outfit. Groan.



    The group so far, minus the Lunokhod as that's waiting on the (third-party) bases:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The magnetised holo looked good enough that I decided to do the Tomcat as well - made much easier as she's holding some form of device in the hand, giving enough bulk to drill into properly!

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    That's likely to be it for today.



    (In answer to a question about pinning.) Decent equipment does make quite a difference, but then so does making mechanical things since an early age. [​IMG]

    On a more encouraging note, pinning isn't that hard, as long as you have a decent pin-vice and a sharp drill bit of the right size. A note on drill bit sizes - standard paperclip wire is very good for pins as it's slightly soft and can be bent into shape, it's also readily available. Paperclips are usually around 0.8mm diameter, so you need either a 0.8mm dia. drill bit (very tight fit) or preferably 0.85mm but they are harder to get hold of.
    1. Once you've worked out where you want the pin, choose one of the pieces and use a compass to make a small indent where the pin will go.
    2. Place the tip of the drill bit in the small indentation (this stops it skidding all over the place) and carefully drill in to the model piece.
    3. The hole depth will depend on the size of the piece - for standard Infinity infantry 2-3mm is going to be plenty, 3-4mm if it's the body.
    4. If you're not sure how deep the hole is, use the end of the flattened paperclip to check, rather than the drill bit, they can be quite fragile to sideways forces!
    5. Once the hole is deep enough, use a pair of side-cutters to cut the 'flat' end off the paperclip.
    6. Put a blob of superglue onto the end of the paperclip.
    7. Push the slightly pointed end of the clip into the hole, giving the other end a slight tap with something heavyish, for example the side of the side-cutter. This should make the sharp end of the clip bite into the metal in the end of the hole and make an even better fit.
    8. Use a piece of tissue to mop up any excess glue, you don't want it spreading over the contact area at this point - superglue doesn't stick well to superglue. [​IMG]
    9. After leaving the glue to dry for a couple of minutes, use the side-cutters to snip off the rest of the paperclip, leaving a few millimetres sticking out.
    10. Work out the final position of the two pieces, place a little bit of red paint on the end of the protruding pin and then place the two pieces together, this will hopefully leave a little red mark where the other hole needs to go.
    11. Use the compass point to make an indentation where the red paint is and wipe away the traces of paint from the join and the model.
    12. Drill out the new hole to slightly more than the length of protruding pin on the other piece of model.
    13. Make sure that you use the tip of a sharp knife (scalpel or new blade on a craft knife) to score lots of small lines over the contact area on both pieces, then do the same at right-angles, giving a cross-hatching effect. This gives the glue a really good grip on the pieces, especially if you've had to carve the contact area into the right shape!
    14. Make sure that you test the pin in the hole and that the whole thing fits together snugly.
    15. Superglue the pin and contact area, slide the pieces together and hold until set.
    16. Done!

    I know that sounds like a lot of steps but it's in a lot of detail and it only takes a few minutes per pin once you're used to it. It can also give a joint that's stronger than the rest of the arm if it's something like the Interventor.

    With 2x1mm magnets:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    However the 2mm magnets are quite a bit weaker, they would need to be glued to the sheets in some way as they are more likely to get knocked off during a game.

    The (third-party) bases turned up this morning and they're lovely! That's a 120x90mm oval, two 60mm and a five-pack of 40mm bases:

    [​IMG]


    Unfortunately they're also about twice the thickness of the Infinity 40mm bases and as a result the top surface is a good 4mm smaller in diameter.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    So if I want to use these for the remotes I'll have to bend the legs in a bit and either remove the bottom 2-3mm of the base or sculpt extensions to the extensions. [​IMG]


     
    #3 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Oni, Section9, hydra and 1 other person like this.
  4. xagroth

    xagroth Mournful Echo

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2017
    Messages:
    5,708
    Likes Received:
    4,597
    I had to install magnets on both the body and the intersection point of the legs for the Tsyklons... the weapons refused to fit in the space between the front legs! I had glued them the wrong way... But since I refused to glue the dorsal fin (too little contact surface) they end being of the right height for a Size 4 model, and as a bonus I can separate the body for easier transportation.

    Now if only Corvus were so nice as to sell some extra legs, so I could co-opt some Yaokong to use as Transductor Zonds...
     
    ijw likes this.
  5. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    A quick 'bulk' test using plasticine:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Nope.

    Just too big and bulky, and matching to the paving slabs on the edges of the bases would be a pain.


    Oh well.


    Yes, sanding that down would make an awful lot of nasty resin dust. Yuck.


    So it's back to embossed plasticard:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    No, that's not snowshoes but plasticard on the bottom of the base extensions to lift them up level with the new base height, before trimming. I may have to file a bit of detail off the tops of the base extensions, though.


    Base marked so that I know roughly where to drill the holes in the circumference:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Once the holes in the base were drilled, I used those holes to mark where to drill holes in the metal base extensions and pinned all four of them:

    [​IMG]


    Finished assembly, with magnetised guns and the body currently sitting on the big central pin:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I need to do a little filing and filling where the extensions meet the base, but apart from that it's done!
     
    #5 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Oni, Section9 and xagroth like this.
  6. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    November 2010

    There is finally a bit more progress - the legs for the two Tsyklon Sputniks are cleaned up:

    [​IMG]


    Plus, being the obsessive type that I am, I pulled a bunch of images out of the markers PDF and resized them to fit a 1" hole punch:

    [​IMG]


    I spent quite a bit of time searching down a 1" hole punch that didn't cut out little flowers or stars after doing a load of rectangular counters for Apocalypse games and deciding that round ones would be neat.


    Assembling the legs - lower half marked and ready to drill:

    [​IMG]


    And marked with a felt-tip so that I can remember which way around the legs go:

    [​IMG]



    Glued, pinned & drying ready for leg-bending to get them to fit the bases.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    I'll not be pinning these ones to the bases...

    next batch of photos. The pins sticking up out of the leg hubs aren't in the same place so it was time to identify the leg-body pairings before drilling into the bodies:

    [​IMG]



    Pins in place:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    But a lot of pieces to go...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The weapon assemblies might be magnetised again, on the other hand there are no extra weapons to swap out.


    Still undecided on gluing the bodies on once everything's painted, they are much easier to transport separately but then tend to separate when you pick them up to move on the battlefield.

    I'm definitely not fixing them together until painted, that way lies madness and needing to use brushes with right-angle bends halfway along. [​IMG]


    Before-n-after 'bobble-shaving':

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Snowshoe time again:

    [​IMG]


    I wasn't going to add embossed plasticard to the bases of these two but changed my mind to keep the force more cohesive.



    No, still not decided on a colour scheme or a style. I'm wondering about black/green/grey, though.


    My main complaint* about the Sputnik design is that the angle between the legs is too tight for the guns to fit in without bending the legs a long way sideways and making the model even more crab-legged than it already is, so it's time to trim some guns again...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    With pin, ready to attach to the body, although I don't think I'll do that until the side-pieces are on.

    [​IMG]


    *Don't get me wrong, they're lovely models!


    First Tsyklon almost assembled, just the tailfin to go. Not such an insane number of pins this time - one for the body-turbine joint and another one on each side.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    The Feuerbach still isn't glued in, I'll do that once the tailfin is on.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    The other Tsyklon's legs have been assembled and based, but nothing else has been done to it yet.

    [​IMG]



    I bent the front legs out on this one to make sure that there was room for the weapon assembly and especially the ammo feed. Fronts of bases facing each other:

    [​IMG]


    The base extensions are now roughly every 90? which matches the official models.


    Scale shot - normal paperclip, 0.5mm wire, tailfin and 0,5mm drill bit.

    [​IMG]



    Unfortunately on pieces this thin it's easy to end up going through the side, but once the wire is in it'll be easy to fill.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Another scale photo showing an even more insane drill bit.

    Left-to-right: 0.3mm (never used this one!), 0.5mm, 0.85mm (for paperclip holes), Nomad hacker sheet.

    [​IMG]



    The completed Tsyklon, Feuerbach also glued in place.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]




    Minor update - I've added some 1x5mm magnets to the underside of one of the Tsyklon bases to see how happy I am with magnetised transport, they're strong enough to hold it horizontal and even upside down.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Death from above!
     
    #6 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Oni, Section9, taylor and 1 other person like this.
  7. xagroth

    xagroth Mournful Echo

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2017
    Messages:
    5,708
    Likes Received:
    4,597
    Extra bonus for Magentised Bases among Nomad Remotes: Climbing Plus is actually possible with metal scenography!!! :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
     
  8. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Oddly enough, a fair amount of my scenery has metal in it. :smile:
     
    xagroth likes this.
  9. taylor

    taylor Well-Known Member
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2017
    Messages:
    624
    Likes Received:
    1,138
    Man.. it's been a while since I've seen this, but I haven't forgotten how rad your bases are!
     
  10. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
  11. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    November 2010 continued...

    It gets worse, or better, depending on your point of view. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    After a comment from Domo on the club forum about lining all our scenery with metal plates (I'd forgotten to bring blu-tack & spare 40mm bases again last night) I had a brainwave. The walls on most of our scenery (GW CoD ruins, the planned foamed PVC blocks etc.) is quite thin, 3-5mm.

    The magnets under the base are slightly inset and don't get close enough the the walls, but adding a couple of extra 1x5mm discs is enough the counteract that:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Place a bleeping strong 5x5mm neodymium magnets on the other side of the wall and:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The rest of the bases are now magnetised. An important tip when magnetising resin bases - make sure that the hole is slightly larger than the magnets or cut a small channel down one side - otherwise you put a blob of superglue in, attempt to push the magnets in and fail to do so because the glue can't get out...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    And a Spiderman group shot:

    [​IMG]

    The one in the front is an old Kyromek ED209 lookalike that I'm currently using as a proxy for a Reaktion Zond.

    December 2010

    Finally following up on Magno's original pointer about using magnets for transport rather than for sticking models onto walls... [​IMG]

    This is how I've been transporting things recently - a standard GW case with infantry models in the top and a double-height layer underneath to hold all the remotes etc:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now the ingredients for a cheap magnetised version - the case, some sticky pads and an old baking tray:

    [​IMG]


    The baking tray was thoroughly washed and the reverse given a sanding down to make it slightly rougher while the inside of the case was given a thorough hoover. I then dug into the pack of sticky pads, only to discover that they were a bit more 'mini' than expected, only 5mm square! A lot of sticking down in patches (and removing 250 bits of non-stick paper) later...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The tray was ready to go into the case.

    Then came cutting out sections from the 'floor' of the bottom layer - several were cut out slightly larger than the remote's bases, two were totally cut out:

    [​IMG]


    Then place the foam back into the case, on top of the secured baking tray:

    [​IMG]


    The figures fit in quite snugly! The remotes will still need foam on top for the moment, as the top halves won't be glued in place until they are painted.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #11 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Section9 and xagroth like this.
  12. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    I've finally started putting paint on the Nomads! The Tomcat Engineer is being used as the test piece for the colour scheme:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The grey undersuit is a mix of wet-blending and layering but not very smoothly as I'm woefully out of practice. [​IMG]

    The harder armour pieces will be purple (you can see the start of base-coating on one leg), with green straps and details.

    It's mostly finished now but I may not get any photos up until the morning.

    The gun body ended up very dark grey (as above but with a couple of coats of black wash) with the padded section on the bottom and on the end of the stock being a leathery brown, plus a few details like the barrel in Boltgun plus wash.

    Lenses on the backs of the forearms will probably be green painted gems but are still black undercoat at the moment.

    The purple which included most of the backpack ended up a 'hard' purple, a bit darker and less saturated than what's in the photo, with more extreme edge highlighting than the greys.

    As far as pop/bang is concerned... [​IMG] The belt, straps, tiny wires on boot edges and the very top part of the backpack were base coated with two stages of foundation green, then painted with snot green and highlighted with snot green mixed with a bit of foundation light grey - only small parts by area, but boy does it make the figure 'pop' compared to just the grey and purple!

    The head stayed mostly black with the outer 'rim' of the forehead in purple, and silver ears. A few details like the tools and buckles were also picked out in Boltgun.

    It's a very dark scheme, but pale bases and the almost neon-green details should stop it being too dark.

    I'm definitely going to need to brush up on my blending/shading skills before doing all the flat surfaces of the remotes... [​IMG]

    Looking at the model again while I type, the grey/green combo makes me think of Oniwaban, which isn't a bad thing to think of.


    Before & after:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And the rest of the shots:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Lower views without the holo-display:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The gun barrel still needs a wash or two, the forearm lenses/gems still need doing and of course the base.

    The base will probably be a warm pale grey for the panels with a metallic hatch and black base edge plus 'facing' triangle on the front.

    One of the reasons for going for the darker than standard scheme is to make the remotes look more menacing. Looking at the model again, the orange-brown does stand out a bit, but nowhere near as much as in the photo - I'd increased the saturation of the images slightly as I was using a calibrated screen which tends to be less vibrant than most people's and it did odd things to that colour...

    It's only this morning that I remember that the plan had been to have black and darkish green as the main colours, with purple detailing. I may still try that on the remotes, though.



    Some more grey areas done:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    On the two new figures, I ended up with a base coat of adeptus battlegrey followed by a thick wash of watered down chaos black with a little black ink in it. While the wash was still drying I touched up with battlegrey again, blending it up with a little bit of astronomican grey. It's slightly shiny in areas but that'll be hidden by varnish anyway...

    I need to get some acrylic medium/thinner if I'm really going to do wet blending again - water and a cold room just isn't enough. [​IMG]

    Anyway, I've started on the skin next, on the grounds that if the faces go wrong after I've done the rest of the paintjob it's a pain to start again...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is a dull-coloured base coat mixed from about six different colours including bleached bone (old), some foundation grey, some dark green and dark flesh. The base coat has been applied in slightly different thicknesses to already start adding some depth - I'll then carry on in a similar manner to the grey areas with a greyish-brown wash (which will add a bit more colour) then retouch with flesh-mix and blend in some highlights at the same time.

    The bases still need quite a lot of work as well.




    A bit more done.

    Skin areas given a wash which was a mix of really old chestnut ink, a bit of devlan mud and a bit of dark green paint to tone done the orangeness:

    [​IMG]

    Skin bought back up and highlighted, in the end the new skin mix was too dull in colour, I had to do a couple of very thin glazes of red/chestnut to get some life

    [​IMG]

    Clockmaker's hair underpainted with a mix of clathan brown & astronomican grey highlighted up to near-white:

    [​IMG]

    Hair given an overcoat of really old spearstaff brown (a dull yellow) mixed with snakebite leather (light orange-brown) and then highlighted up further:

    [​IMG]

    The photo booth is in use so this is under bad lighting...



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

     
    #12 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Section9 and xagroth like this.
  13. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Progress is slowing down due to the extra Xmas workload on the shop, but I managed to assemble the remaining Tsyklon a few days ago - the ammo feed for the Spitfire was a pain!

    Only one pin on each side and one for the turbine piece, unlike that first Lunokhod:

    [​IMG]

    I tried out my PCB drills when doing this, for 0.8mm/paperclip-sized holes it feels a lot more robust and therefore more accurate:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The remaining pieces:

    [​IMG]

    Grrrr, down boy!

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Getting the ammo feed to fit involved filing down the size of the 'pins' on each end and quite a lot of bending but I got there in the end...

    I'm leaving the tailfin off this one:

    [​IMG]


    Now, some paint. I scraped out a bit of time this morning and got the purple areas done on the Clockmaker and Interventor:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As you can see it's shinier and not the same colour as on the Tomcat, that's because I started with a base colour partly mixed from foundation purple which turned out to be too dull in colour and the ink & paint wash I used to richen it turned out to be glossy.

    I quite like the effect, though.


    But it's not a robot! On the other hand, TO-camo is fun...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I was considering leaving the sniper rifle arm off for painting, then remembered why I'm using black undercoat and a dark colour scheme - the bits I can't reach won't be visible...

    Plus, anything that makes it less likely that i will start painting (like working out how to spray undercoat the gun by itself) is a bad thing...
     
    #13 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
    Section9 and xagroth like this.
  14. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    January 2011


    Meanwhile...

    The second Zondbot has finally been put together. Parts:

    [​IMG]


    Parts separated and cleaned, tab mostly removed and filed down to pins:

    [​IMG]


    Glued to base, the pin on the back foot required a close fit in the hole as the pin was wider than the piece of foot it connected to. magnets still need to be added under base for transport.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    As the antenna on the already-made Zondbot has already broken off once when it got caught on some foam I decided to try pinning this one - if just to see if it was possible! So here you can see a standard paperclip, the teeny-tiny antenna, a 0.2mm drill bit and some tiny spring wire that I found.

    [​IMG]


    The 0.2mm bit broke before I even tried drilling - I was trying to line the bit up with the antenna on the drill press and accidentally brushed the antenna against the bit. Ping!

    As a result, I dug out the next bigger drill bit, 0.35mm.

    [​IMG]


    The 0.35mm bit snapped off partway into the hole in the back of the drone's head, but was still sharp enough to do another hole at a slightly different angle. So here it is, assembled:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    For all the hassle and one-and-a-half drill bits broken I think it was worth the effort, the antenna is really solid now.

    After a break in the rainy weather yesterday, the Sputnik-chassis remotes are now undercoated!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Plus a group shot:

    [​IMG]



    One of the undercoated base/leg units, showing the pin that holds the body section on:

    [​IMG]


    The bases on the three mostly-painted models weren't going well, so the whole lot got a couple of thin layers of Astronomican Grey foundation paint to get a nice & even pale base colour. If you look carefully, some of the tiles have also been painted over in a slightly warmer tone to add variation.

    [​IMG]


    I then mixed up a bunch of different inks and paints into a wash, including Badab Black ink, some black paint, Charadon Granite & Adeptus Battlegrey foundations, water and some Vallejo acrylic medium that I picked up for testing. A watery mix over the whole base gives a big contrast:

    [​IMG]


    All the bases now washed, with some of the tiles/paving slabs having had extra washes of dark mixes to add more variation:

    [​IMG]



    Improved lighting photo:

    [​IMG]



    The finished Tomcat Engineer, apart from varnishing and possibly some fire arc lines on the sides:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

     
    #14 ijw, Nov 27, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
  15. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Now edited to make the images visible again after a server move...
     
    Section9, Aldo, xagroth and 1 other person like this.
  16. xagroth

    xagroth Mournful Echo

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2017
    Messages:
    5,708
    Likes Received:
    4,597
    I managed to make the photos of my Tsyklons... EC EVO for scale XD

    And the magnets let me store the bits separately or exchange bodies if I want to (this would be more looking for future mixes, however).
    WhatsApp Image 2017-12-16 at 18.19.17.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2017-12-16 at 18.20.24.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2017-12-16 at 18.20.51.jpeg
     
    RAF and ijw like this.
  17. Aldo

    Aldo Trying to detox from being a lorefag

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2017
    Messages:
    937
    Likes Received:
    1,542
    That's all just filler, bring on the Maghariba Car Crusher!

    BOTH of them!*

    *You finished the new one, riiiiight?
     
    Pierzasty likes this.
  18. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    (May 2019) Finally got around to adding some code to help convert the old forum post image URLs.

    Carry on from Jan 2011...



    Two more nearly finished bases, this time the Clockmaker and Interventor.

    Tarmac step 1, dark grey base colour then a light grey drybrush followed by a very light white drybrush without having washed the brush:

    [​IMG]

    Tarmac step 2, after the drybrush stage is thoroughly dry, a thick wash of black paint and repainting the base edge:

    [​IMG]

    Just the facing arrow to add now.

    Green done on the two, leaving jewels, rifle pads, Interventor hair/sensor net and assorted small metallic bits to go:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Finally got around to doing some gems. Woefully out of practice at them but they'll do. Orange on the ones on the Clockmaker that are against green, blue everywhere else. I'd been going to do them all orange and changed my mind at the last minute...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Clockmaker is now done, the Interventor needs hair and possibly some light spill around the glowy bits on the back.

    The Tomcat hadn't been finished because I'd not done the gems yet! Here are the three together:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Two weeks with no progress - the eBay store has been rather busy recently plus planning the Summer Infinity tournament has taken it's toll...

    However I've started the Tsyklon and Lunokhod Sputniks. You've already seen the bases but here's a close-up where you can also see the start of the metallic sections of the leg. The idea is to have a 'bare' metal leg with coloured panels attached.

    [​IMG]

    The metallic parts then got a wash of diluted black paint* with some chestnut ink mixed in, this gives a lovely greasy steel look. Once that was fully dried I gave the areas a light wetbrush with Boltgun Metal and some directional highlighting with Mithril Silver which gives the metallic areas a decent depth:

    [​IMG]

    Then came the point of deciding which areas should be purple, and whether to try and duplicate one of the two existing purple mixes...

    I ended up mixing a totally new purple from foundation Hormagaunt Purple and hex pot/black lid-era Liche Purple which is an very saturated dark purple. The mix of the strongly-pigmented but crap coloured foundation paint with vivid dark purple and some dilution with water has given a really solid base colour after three thin coats:

    [​IMG]

    But enough of legs, we want to see the rest! Base-coated Tsyklons, metallics on the bodies still need shading wash/wetbrush/highlight:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Most of the black areas will stay black with pale edge-highlighting while the tips of the feet will be brown-orange like the grips on the Combi-Rifles on the infantry. The outer rims of the turbines will probably get yellow and black hazard stripes but i'll have to make the yellow quite subdued to stop them drawing too much attention. Assorted details will be picked out in neon green again, possibly including the two stripes on the side pieces.

    If I'm feeling really confident the 'canopies' on the front-top of the main bodies will get a reversed city skyline reflection. Maybe.


    *My favourite black paint of all time was the really old (15+ years) GW Chaos Black - the pigment in it was so fine that you could dilute it almost infinitely without it breaking down. Combined with it's slightly matte finish when used as a wash and mixing well with inks it's the best base medium for metallics shading washes I've ever come across. I tried a number of blacks over the years since my black pots ran out but nothing came close, but recently I ordered some Coat d'Arms black (the original suppliers of GW paints) and huzzah! it's the old formulation that can be watered down forever! These models were the first test.
     
  20. ijw

    ijw Wargaming Trader, Freelance Editor (UK)
    Warcor

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Messages:
    5,283
    Likes Received:
    10,701
    Oh, and a sneak peek of my next project:

    [​IMG]
     
    jherazob and Section9 like this.