Edit: Didn't realize this split over a page break, so I'm pasting the post I'm replying to back in for readability. Yellow on white is a violation of the Heraldic color rules (which were worked out over several centuries to be visible at the greatest possible distances on the battlefield, with faded colors). Yellow and white are considered 'metals' in Heraldry, everything else is a color, and the rule is no metal on metal or color on color. I usually use the basic color wheel for the base colors of the model, but I try to apply heraldic rules for highlights, so if a color highlighted to near-white is right next to a color highlighted to near-yellow, I put a dark or even black line between the highlights to make both highlights pop better. If you do camo 'right' to-scale, you end up with a blurry model. That's what camo is supposed to do, after all! So what we should do for models is to make the camo pattern much bigger and simpler than it 'should' be. [ edit ] The gun and upper-body camo is fine (both color and size-wise), the yellow hexes on white are a bit problematic in terms of color but are good in terms of size.
Super interesting, thanks @Section9 ! I think it will be too much work to change the colour at this stage, but for the second Tuareg model, I'll move away from yellow. Any suggestions for an interesting colour to go with. Some kind of electric blue would be nice, but also kind of the obvious choice, I think.
Did some more work on it, trying to break it up with 'transition' hexagons here and there. Better effect (notwithstanding the poor colour choice)?
I can dig it, but what about the large white section after the yellow fade out. Would it look OK to have the blue lines also fade into white, or does the model become too 'busy'?
Yeah, it'd be fine to fade the blue into white there, though I'd personally want some non-camo in place of the white. Not pure white, some actual colors. But that's me.
I think it's really coming together, thanks very much for the advice @Section9 ! Any further opinions are much appreciated! I can still work on this, and there's always lessons to learn for the second Tuareg model :P
so yes now looks better - , avoid pure white / black as thous are not actual colours just a spectrums of brigntnes .
OTOH, pure white, or even inverse shading (lighter in bottom facing zones), could have provided a "void" or "disorienting" effect. Different than Vantablack yet still weird shapeless silhouette.
Yes, 'countershading' was practiced a lot in WW2. There are TWO railway guns in this picture. The one closer to the switch, that Y-shaped section of track at the top of the picture, has been countershaded while the other one was just camouflaged. You can see the railcar the countershaded gun is mounted on, but not the gun itself! Many Sherman Fireflies, which had a gun almost twice as long as a standard Sherman, had the 'extra' barrel length countershaded, to make them harder to tell from a standard Sherman. You can also find pictures of tanks where the belly is painted white or at least dusty tan, to reduce the appearance of a shadow below. It's also why airplanes up until the 1980s had white bellies and gray or even camouflage upper surfaces. If you do it right, countershading works very well indeed.
Wow I really struggle to see that second railway gun! Very interesting reading, would be fun to do on a camo TAG :D
A bunch more minis finished! I batched painted team: 'leather coats'. Not all of them useful in game, but all of them fun to paint. I especially enjoyed the Khawarij. Also you'll notice my Captain Haqqislam :P I did the same thing (EVO remote satellite for a shield) on the 1st ed Tarik, so now I have both profiles, for what that's worth. And at the end, finally a picture of the Maggie with all new flock base and a bit more earth effects in the wheels. My camera skills let me down a bit here, but that's what happens when I let my three year old help. Most notably there's no Khawarij close up as they came out blurry. So, next time I get my camera out I'll take another pic. I tried to be quicker than I have been in the past. This was achieved mostly through the airbrush, which I didn't use for anything but base coating in the past, but have graduated to using it for the majority of highlights. Also I embraced a bit of dry brushing and washing for the leather, rather than my old, effective, but painfully slow stippling and washing. If you notice the difference, let me know if it's for better or worse!
o im ass forgot to post what i was talking about you may simplyfi this by stipling an adding scraches lookd good :) or go ham with a bad brush and get this wethered effect or this but there is a lot of OSL but idea is add purple in shadows and orange / rusty in highlights ;) and ther is one more tech that require to paint whole leather in Black and white and then just colorising it :)
Super interesting @maru it looks so much better with a bit of texture! I'll experiment when I next do some leather stuff. Probably a poncho or strapping. Thanks for the tips, as always!
