Nah, it's not that easy. 1.5mm is not always fitting flush with the base. Sometimes it sticks out around 0.1 or 0.05mm. Enough to be able to rotate on it. I already had my "own" thread about the bases and the trouble with them, so I am completely with you that they should change the underside of the bases. Materialwise they are okay, although today I had one of the bases from the Dire Foes (Datacash) that I could push through with the drill, without acutally drilling. What's working are small "micro" magnets 2x2mm that you can put inside the edges of the four segments, not inside the slots (they are too deep) but you need at least 4 of these per model and I think they are rather expensive compared to larger magnets. So I only use them if nothing else works, means if I have to slot the model in diagonally. Oh.. and I won't start sawing around on the models. If it can't be done with a 4-Inch-folding knife, it's bad design. No box cutter/precision cutter or hobby saws for me.
I think it's just a legacy thing. Bars are how things have always been. There are plenty of models that don't have the bar, so it's easy enough to do. Maybe they should have just rethought the entire way a base works when they went to the LOF bases. I got Stormstrike, which has the push fit minis, pretty easy to assemble and I still superglued the edges, but damn the fit between pieces was horrible.Details also weren't as ingrained as I'd figured they'd be, but maybe better on the non-push fit. They are incorporating it more in there designs now, which is good. Not push-fit, but grove/ peg. Amusingly, I think Ariseia's plastic minis are assembled, so there's that. I don't think it's needed to saw off the entire lug anyway, more purchase to just clip it down into spikes. Either way, making my own bases means I also cut off most of the stuff where a mini is standing on a piece of trash also and mold something up. Yeah, I had 1mm and 1 was too short, 2 of them too wide, but 1.5mm worked good. I'm sure there's some variance in bases/ magnets too, but all seem good to me.
I can't imagine the bar is a sprue gate that is needed. Plenty of minis without it, and the bar still has a little sprue gate sometimes itself. That said, easy enough to think of the bar as just more flash that needs to be trimmed off, so doesn't make a big difference to me. I do agree overall that if they're going to have the bars and have the bases integrate with that bar, then they should make sure the bar lines up with everything correctly though.
I really love the new bases since they are very easily magnetized using 2x2mm magnets – there was a previous thread by @Spitfire_TheCat that they mention above about the new bases. My post there with the video on how to magnetize them easily: https://forum.corvusbelli.com/threads/new-bases-for-a-new-decade.36169/#post-315866
It's working pretty well, right. But it's no advantage of the new bases, it would work with the older bases as well. Just that you have not that many options with the new bases. So really it's no feature, but a bug. The old bases could be magnetized using larger magnets, as well as the small "micro" magnets, so it's really a step backwards.
For casting? Not really. OTOH, it would mean having to pin feet for reinforcement, instead of just using the (trimmed) bar and making a hole in the base. Of course feeders would be needed anyway, people would complain if they are in parts clearly visible as it would means extra cleaning care, while bottom of feet are hardly visible after assembly. So in the end going with bars are more for the final user (just some are stubborn about tools). The origin was GW slotta base concept. And it also provides/d info about what the miniature is (GW had copyright one side and some kind of model ID/name the other). Now, why the new plastic bases have such a thick bars at 90 degrees, while edge is thinner... *shrug* I keep on thinking the deal with Proxxon, Dremel, whatever... failed. *wink*
I guess I'll see whether the 1,5mm magnets work out for me... And yeah, 2x2mm magnets would be a bit more costly to use, considering you need a few of them for each single base. As for cutting, sawing etc. - I understand some cleanup can be needed, but if there's too much of it, it really gets annoying. That's why I hate GW's old resin models - there's so much cutting and cleanup involved that, at times, it feels like it's a "Sculpt your own mini" exercise. Oh, I'm definitely not a fan of GW's push-fit models - they are supposed to be easy to assemble, but some of there actually aren't. And they don't look as good as their normal models. When it talk about GW's modern models, I'm talking about their new non-push-fit stuff, which usually really works like a dream. Ah, but you could do the same with the old bases, too. And you didn't need multiple magnets... Okay, so maybe the bars should be made shorter? And the pre-made slots in the bases dropped altogether? Instead, people could cut their own slots in the bases and position the mini correctly, so that fits the LoF markers?
I have to disagree with you. In addition to the arc of fire indicators, there's a perfect slot in the middle for a 2x2mm magnet. With multiple magnets you avoid rotation completely, and with 5 magnets you can transport your minis sideways in a backpack while riding a bike. The only thing I wish for is four more 2mm slots so I can slot in all my magnets :) P.S: Just disagreeing with you on this one - I happen to have found a quick and stable way to magnetize bases. You make some good points re mini assembly!
This. Without the slots, the bars could be fit easily and there would be more room for more freedom in magnet placement.
Oh yeah, I figured you were. As I mentioned I was glueing the edges anyway (since otherwise there would be huge gaps), but some of the "hold head with one hand, hold body with second hand, push other body part on with third hand" stuff was amusing. I was looking around for a Fantasy game, so figured I'd give it a look, but Warcry seems a bit too different, and also has a starter that is expensive and I'm not interested in... They have plenty of minis that don't have the bar, instead with a peg on each foot. I'm honestly not sure why they bother with the crossbar slot on the bases anyway.
the assembling for plastic and metal miniatures is different. GW has to split a lot their minis because of the limitations of plastic molds, on the other side, because they have to split it more, there appears that is "easier", when in reality you need more steps, and every piece glued can leave a gap. A gap in the middle of the chest because the torax is divided in 3 pieces, is something ugly. Last week I started to assemble my new plastic sororitas: all of them have their shoulder parts split in two, so I will need some green stuff to leave it as nice as the old metal ones, for example.
I still say it's not less amusing than the assembly process of some Infinity minis, which seem to have been designed for extraterrestial with four sets of hands full of very nible fingers... :) Something I noticed re: GW's Push-Fit minis: widening the peg slots helps. I never try to assemble these minis without doing that first. Yeah. CB should make the bar shorter (if it's really necessary for production purposes), drop the slot and let people make their own slots at desired locations. That way, the LoF bases would work nicely. I'd contend GW's assembly doesn't "appear" to be easier, it *is* easier. At this stage, I've assembled a few dozen of Infinity minis and a similar amount of GW minis - and I can tell with great certainity that GW's models gave me a lot less stress and hassle. As for gaps, I have encountered that problem only with GW' Push-Fits (which, as I mentioned, are not the assembly system I'm advocating here) and a rare over-ambitious model like Stormcasts' hammer tornado, which is really hard to assemble properly due to an extremely crazy shape. Also, Infinity minis have gaps problems, too - I've noticed that some people here on the boards reported problem with assembling Tai Sheng without having to resort to greenstuff...
The push-fits are meant to go together without glue in regards to the whole gappy bit. It's something that gets mentioned fairly often even by GW that if you're going to glue, you'll want to trim the pusher down a bit to get the 'perfect' fit.
If assembling Infinity models is frustrating for you, try to assemble some malifaux models. You will change this opinion, for sure :P
If trimming the tab with clippers I find it better to cut the tab away from one of the feet before then cutting the remainder to size. Just clipping straight through sometimes damaged ankles etc.
I typically use a jeweler's saw to cut the tab between the feet first, then clip it off on foot and trim the other down to a rough 3x3mm cylinder. That cylinder is what I use to anchor the model in the base for extra adhesive strength. When I have been lazy and just clipped off the tab or clipped it between first, I usually end up with a slightly bent leg because of how clippers work by pushing one side away from the other. I don't own a God Hand, but I imagine that it'd only mitigate the problem - plus I don't think God Hands are made for metal parts.
well... for me is easier to assemble most of infinity miniatures. They are usually 2 o 3 parts to assemble and not very difficult. Maybe I am viased a little, since I like to assembe, and pretty used to work with metal miniatures. Yes, there are tricky ones like the chimera, but usually are old sculpts, the new ones are just easy. None from CB up until now are near old green knight's horse or pegasus levels. Of course, the actual minis from GW aren't as hard as the old metal ones, but I need to do more work to finish them (liquid stuff on parts union) than to finish CB's
Just wanted to add my frustration to this thread incase CB read it. This is the least fun I have ever had building models, GW is way better and was even better than infinity is now 20 years earlier. The bases keep snapping and some of the model parts are just way to heavy making them difficult to glue together firmly. Not what I expect when spending £55-70 on an action pack and definitely enough to put some people who are new to the hobby off the game. I have only just started playing Infinity and think they have a great product, but the bases need to change and model production needs improving imo.