If you insist... You could probably mess around with a dice tower, I think most of them have their bounce-panels at 45deg to the tower... True that. I had a picture lurking around somewhere of a Keisotsu ML calling a shot on the exposed head of a Shaolin through 5 different arches. Ooooh, USB borescopes for the win! Especially for that price, damn. You win this thread, sir!
I imagine that one could deduce some ideas for a table building formula here Post Your Tables! - Access Guide to the Human Sphere. - Infinity: the Game Community It is possible to get a wireless borescope, which may help with compatibility issues. Other things: Image definition- Will 480p be enough or is 720p worthwhile? Cable length -- I see a few with 2m cables and others with 5m length. 2m should suffice for gaming purposes. Too bad I cannot find one with a built in laser pointer.
I see a potential market for wargamers, as long as it's still cheap, otherwise people won't bother and go back to laser pointers
480p is old VCR, good enough to check if something is visible or not. Wireless is probably worse, after all USB device should just appear as generic webcam (unless retarded designer was unable to work with generic drivers, common with old webcams, of course... or sneaky designer wanted trojaned drivers). I don't know if a laser pointer will help or just cause issues (reflections in shiny things). You could always use duct tape. *ha* Or build some kind of aim marks in front of the lens, so the video looks like a sniper scope. Speaking of scope... do borescopes like these let you focus? Fixed infinite focus? Fixed short focus (which is probably what makes more sense for the original task if you must set lens to something)? One "pro" USB borescope I saw mentioned 6 cm focus. *ugh* I have one old webcam (with "springy tube" cable, so it could be used for this if not for the stupid drivers) and it has manual focus (no LEDs, tho, yet gets hot fast). Looking around I also found tiny webcams for less than 15, just in case you want to look for other options.
I think that it's better to err on the side of your table being a bit too open, rather than a bit too cluttered. While it can be sad to have a stud sniper go on a rampage, it's even worse to have warbands that can't be dislodged outside of chainrifle range. A sniper costs 20-40 pts at 1-1.5 SWC, and has paid for his utility. If you set up a board that's completely obstructed, those 5 point Ghazi's get obnoxious real fast. Balance is key.
OK, the gadget arrived. Got the cheapest version (but still paid twice just to not have to wait 2 months for it to arrive from China, 7€ instead of 3 or something). Spoiler: Warcor for scale Not shown: a couple wire things i assume are for picking things up with it, a small adapter with a mirror pointing to the side which will probably be great for some cases, and something i still have no idea what's for but kinda looks like a cap. The thing is fixed focus, the little box thing has a button which i assume is for taking the pic selfie stick style (but that didn't work in the app i got to avoid installing the suggested one from China which will probably steal all your info and spy on you) and a wheel to regulate the brightness of the LEDs. And now some crappyrific tests. It can take pics: Spoiler: The brave Warcor doesn't know how to do Blue Steel and videos: Spoiler: He doesn't move as much as the pose suggests (Note, i manually converted the video to gif to be able to embed it here, it doesn't record to gifs) Since this is just a test can't confirm whether it heats up (seriously doubt it somehow), but can confirm that the thing could easily be used for LOS tests as long as you don't trip down everything with the long cable (i'm thankful i went with the 1 meter option, i believe 2m would just be cumbersome, and more than that an obstacle). I imagine eventually there will be a wireless version as small as our laser pointers and just as cheap, but for now this will do. I won't be hitting the table until the next week, but will see if this week i can take a second and go to my FLGS and take some pics with it in an actual game (hopefully i'll be lucky and somebody will be playing Infinity at the moment, otherwise you'll get whatever it's available and like it )
You should try with two models, separated 80-100 cm. Or a row of paint pots, spaced evenly. To test if you will get good images of "this one fires at that other over there", or at least to determine what range it works OK. The "getting warm" thing was probably multiple issues, it was old webcam with everything inside the head, and it was a rubbery head with 3 tiny holes. Ugh, the rubber coat has become sticky with the years. Rubbing with alcohol seems to have removed the sticky feeling (after leaving lots of black grime in the tissue) along the original rubber touch I remember... no idea if this is varnish/paint or plastic degradation, the decals are still mostly there. I decided opening it (2 screws! not glued), one sensor chip and another for control, also microbutton (no idea what it does, either *grin*) and handful SMD, soldered in tiny and thin PCB. Edit: typo.
Have you tried it with the laptop too? I note this with amusement: A little Cinnamon to spice up the day? From what I've read, simply plugging one into the USB and using VLC or Cheese or Mplayer to open the camera as a media capture device should work.
Now this is some Next Level Shit right here! I can see the usefulness of this for making nice cineamtic pics for, lets say, Battle Reports?
Ever seen a table running that reccomendation? Its sparse. The photos is grossly out of scale. This topic does make me think i should update my table primer though...
Please do! I've run a setup very similar to the suggested layout from the rule book. It was indeed sparse.
I've seen soo much different advice on how to set up tables, and it all really comes down to are the tables you are playing on enjoyable? Some advice I've seen that I disagree with 1. Deployment zones should not have snipers nests - I think they should, sniper rifles are expensive and forceing them into the middle of the board forces you into HMGs good range bands, which makes them poor in comparison. 2. Deployment zones should not have LoF to each other - see above comment about expensive guns. 3. You should not have LoF to the objectives on the other side of the board. - I normally see this as a great opportunity for asemmetric board lay outs. If one side can see across better then the other, it makes choosing deployment a lot more meaningful. 4. Make sure to place total cover along both board edges. - I like AD 2, and I like it when AD2 has options to come in, but I don't think you need to cater the board to giving them lots of safe options to land. If someone wants to protect their board edges with AROs, they should be able to do that to a reasonable extent. Generally I try to place at least one piece of total cover along one of the board edges, I might place more. Some advice that I like 1. Don't build your board like a bowl with all the tall builings on the outside/edges. - The game an quickly devolve into a shooting gallary where a strong sniper can domminate the whole board. I like to place at least one very tall building centerally to block some LoF between building in deployment zones, billboard are excellet for this when they are narrow enough models cannot be placed on them. 2. Have different densities of terrain on the board. - My opinion is that there should be places where long range weapons can domminate, but that there should also be areas/paths on the board where short range weapons can approach or flank. 3. Make sure you have cover in both D zones. - You should be able to hide your guys, with the caveat that if you field 18 order lists, or all REM lists you might not have good places for all your guys. 4. Make the two sides of the board different and meaningfully so. - There should be an advantage to choosing a board edge in liu of choosing turn order.
Yes. Sparser terrain is good for things like snipers, nanoscreen, high ARM, and SWC weapons in general. Even on that sparse table, there are many opportunities for Climbing Plus and Super-Jump, too. Too many big building makes chain rifles reign supreme, and too much scatter makes grabbing Cover too easy. In any case, if you are setting up an ITS table, it should resemble official guidelines. I'm not against custom scenarios and rules, I certainly do not think Corvus Belli it above criticism, but I am strongly against customization when someone is asking about official play.
Not really, when I said actually ridiculously spares I meant it, no one who actually plays the game plays on that little terrain, that picture is that vastly out of scale.
https://forum.corvusbelli.com/threads/a-primer-or-table-structure-and-setting-up-the-game.22949/ I'll be adding probably another 2 or 3 disscussions on example tables over the next day or two as well
Not just a table, but an entire tournament of such tables. However, most of the players at that tournament seem to post very little, if at all, here anymore. Here's an example: And the post it's from http://infinitytheforums.com/forum/...th-september-1/?do=findComment&comment=352941
@daboarder is talking about the minimum number of buildings built to the minimum sizes recommended in the book. It's absurdly sparse compared to the images in the book. @Hachiman Taro built it as an experiment. Basically you either need to make the buildings larger or run more of them for it to be average density. It's not unplayably sparse though: just what I'd consider painfully sparse. @Red Harvest that table is sparse. Multiple DZ-DZ firelanes; all 4 board edges are 48" firelanes (although plausibly the back isn't); no-cover on the top level. I regularly see 2-3 snipers arrayed against me: that table would make me cry run 2x ML Grrls. It's not unplayable, but it skews to all-or-nothing LR firepower.
I dont think Id ever not run HI ML links on that table. Grrls, Magisters, Tanko's.....bout the only things that would reliably cut through them would be cutters, Dragoes, Avatars.
