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Alternate Hungries?

Discussion in 'Combined Army' started by DaRedOne, Mar 2, 2018.

  1. Wolf

    Wolf https://watchwolf.net

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    Good suggestion, thanks. Do you use epoxy glue, putty or suchlike to hold them in place?

    My usual approach has been to get lead tape which can be bought cheaply from golf shops. It's for minor swing-weight adjustment to golf clubs, is easily cut to length and has sticky backing to fix to bases.

    That or use neodymium magnets in the base and play the game on a giant sheet of mild steel, I suppose? :wink:
     
    #21 Wolf, Mar 6, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2018
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  2. gamma ray

    gamma ray Well-Known Member
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    Super glue, epoxy or any other strong adhesive will keep them where you put them. I considered stripping an entire church of lead for the Samaritan.
     
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  3. gregmurdock

    gregmurdock Extremely Beloved Member

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    There's four feet and two claws that have base attachments so the decision is yours on how to mount them. I have three with feet on the base and one with on the claw.
     
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  4. Wolf

    Wolf https://watchwolf.net

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    Ah that's good info, thanks @gregmurdock. I'd better grit my teeth and open the darn box then, eh?
     
  5. Wolf

    Wolf https://watchwolf.net

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    Good advice, thanks.

    ... But you do know that adding weight to the base of models does not count towards the goal of every tabletop gamer - painting their own bodyweight in models?
     
  6. Darkvortex87

    Darkvortex87 Combat jump kamikaze

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    symbiomates XD
     
  7. Wolf

    Wolf https://watchwolf.net

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    Well, my eye is drifting towards the Raicho, I must say....

    Paging @Epsolon921 to confirm or deny allegations that he's painted an entire legion of Space Marines!
     
  8. DaRedOne

    DaRedOne Morat Warrior Philosopher
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    I think I'll go the reposing route... Now to buy some epoxi and ask my GF to paint those too so they look like the nids she painted.... Le sigh
     
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  9. Snozz

    Snozz New Member

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    I've been meaning to get a bunch of old metal Tyranid spore mines off ebay to proxy the hungries. They basically fulfil the same role - expendable bio-things that get up in the enemies face and explode or spew template weapons. Bonus points for being dirt cheap cash-wise and matching the aesthetic of the old CA squid drones.
     
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  10. DaRedOne

    DaRedOne Morat Warrior Philosopher
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    The problem with using non-CB models is that I can't field them in ITS matches. And this year I need to bring my MAF to the next Brazilian Open to defend the title :D

    There's a 60% chance I'll be playing StarCo, though. Time to be the one with the cheesy army for a change :D Plus, my pony riot grrls are adorably badass
     
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  11. Zeidan

    Zeidan Baturro Extremo

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    [​IMG]
    That's what I am using. I know this is no helpful, but if you want aesthetics that's the best I found at reasonable price. For ITS purposes I would use random S2 models belonging other factions.
     
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  12. stevenart74

    stevenart74 Well-Known Member

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    Actually I tried in the past to have some sort of improvised "More Xenomorph" takes on the Hungries, when they were the old "Newtface Smoothskin Larvae" kind, by mixing some stuff from Games Workshop kind of Tyranids and "Alchemical Horrors" of the Dirz Faction of the defunct Rackham's Confrontation. . .

    They would have been part of My "100% Exrah Army" (1 Caskuda, 2 Vektors, 3 Iskallers, the Old "Jellyfish Drones" and "Doctor Wormy" enough "Insectified" with other generic E.I. Stuff, such as a Charontid and an Avatar) and then, suddendly, the Insectoids of Infinity went "WH40K Squats" and I lost any interest in buying, converting and painting Miniatures, staying on the Wargame just for the awesome Background and, especially, the excellent Art. . .

    Luckily they were assembled unpainted with just a temporary Low Goo Glue, and it was easy to strip all down, clean and resell them as spares for people of My L.G.S. !!

    As employing the Tyranids of Warhammer 40.000 could be a little tasteless, then these "20° Century Fox" take on the Xenomorphs could be quite cool, and by painting them not in the typical "Rudi Gyger" palette of "Wet Black Bio-Plastic" but rather a matching Colour Swap towards the desired Army fielded could have a lot of Visual Punch. . .
     
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  13. Flipswitch

    Flipswitch Sepsitorised by Intent
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    I found the regular Hungries actually really easy to repose into more sensible poses. They still look very silly, but nowhere near as bad ast the studio ones.
     
  14. Natsymir

    Natsymir Well-Known Member

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    The Hungries is one of the very few cases where I think the older sculpts are better. I've been trying to get hold of these, but even if I did, I bet there's only two, so not enough for the Oznat link team.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. the huanglong

    the huanglong Well-Known Member

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    I like that it looks like there is BS weapon from the parasite, is it the same on the new one?
     
  16. AdmiralJCJF

    AdmiralJCJF Heart of the Hyperpower
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    These were the old Gakis, which I went out of my way to acquire for my wife (as she hated the new ones) when she was building Combined Army:

    [​IMG]

    They actually went onto 25mm bases with little effort and I reposed the arms in all kinds of interesting ways without a problem.

    They ARE a sunofabitch to transport however.
     
  17. toadchild

    toadchild EI Aspect

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    I have the "new" Hungries box, and I was able to make them a bit more stable by making some very small edits to how they are posed and placed on the bases. I've had and played them for years and have never had problems with them coming off their bases, falling apart, etc. Unlike some of the newer kits these models can be altered and recombined in a number of ways to make much more sensible models than what you see in the official photos.
     
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  18. Atticus

    Atticus New Member

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    Yes, that is the chain rifle for the Preta. I like the old sculpts better and have quite a few. Never bothered re-basing them, not sure how it would work. For weighting bases, I purchased some fender washers that are roughly 25mm. I glue those to the base and they provide stability.