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Underpainting O-12

Discussion in 'Miniatures' started by Vanderbane, Feb 3, 2020.

  1. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    So I decided to work on a new painting technique for my O-12. Instead of my usual white prime with blending and layering, I'm using airbrush underpainting to do the tonal shading, and then tinting with brushed glazes. My goal is a muted, "realistic" paint scheme using a palette limited to six paints:

    Vallejo chocolate brown
    Vallejo khaki
    Vallejo burnt cadmium red
    Vallejo pale sand
    Vallejo dark sea blue
    Reaper spectral glow *edit the manufacturer

    I am not a huge fan of the official paint scheme, and wanted something that looked like a peacekeeper force would wear it without being black or green or navy. The desert-style palette was up against a winter scheme, but I have two members of the club painting winter armies right now, so desert it is.

    The first model is the gangbuster.

    IMG_20200202_193011.jpg
    IMG_20200202_193017.jpg
    I think it's fine as a start, but I learned a lot - you can quickly overwhelm the shadows with the glaze if your brush is too loaded or the paint too thick. Patience is key, even more than in layering. But overall this is easy enough and fast as hell - under 5 minutes of active time to prime and shade with the airbrush (assuming you are working on lots of models together), and 3 or 4 hours to glaze it if you keep moving from area to area and color to color to give things time to dry between glazes.

    Working on the dakini hmg next, should finish him up tomorrow if all goes well. I should probably take better pictures then, too.
     
    #1 Vanderbane, Feb 3, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2020
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  2. Koin-Koin

    Koin-Koin Well-Known Member

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    I would be interested by some pictures of the intermediary steps.
     
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  3. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    Good suggestion. Got home to late to do much painting, so here's a few images. The first (on the NGO) is after one coat of black primer (airburshed vallejo surface black). I'm doing a series of three or so really thin coats to protect detail on the model, that's why you can see the metal shine through after only one.
    IMG_20200203_221552.jpg
    Once the model is black, I do two rounds of highlighting - a grey (in this case, Vallejo Medium Grey, which is a pretty warm grey) and a second round of highlighting in white (again, a warm white using Vallejo Pale Sand). The grey is painted zenithal, but off axis around the mini - about a 45 degree cone from zenith all the way around, as well as directly from above. The white is just directly from above. This basic strategy is the same as used by Dana Howl (who has killer youtube tutorials - check her out ). You can see two examples of the endpoint of this process on the Beta and the Sirius.
    IMG_20200203_211807.jpg
    IMG_20200203_221655.jpg
    Then I start brush glazing on the color. The dakini HMG is after a round or two of color. As you can see, it's starting to build up, but still pretty faint compared to the gangbuster. Some colors take more coats to get where you want them - it's a process. But it gives a lot of control.
    IMG_20200203_211840.jpg
     
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  4. Koin-Koin

    Koin-Koin Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks for the extra pics, it really helps to follow how you get to this result.
    I've started to dilute the Vallejo PU primer lately* and it was a bit disappointing to have this transparent result at first but it ended fine once set.

    Thanks for Dana Howl's tutorial link, looks like a good source to keep nearby.

    *right after seing Angel Giraldez' priming tutorial. His channel is really great to learn things.
     
  5. LeeroyVinland

    LeeroyVinland O-12 Agent

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    Underpainting is good for sketching highlights but not so good for the actual contrast.

    I also thought it was the way some time ago but it never turned out statisfying for me.

    Otherwise I really like your Gangbuster :) The flesh could use a tack more shade by a wash (work really well on organic structure) but that's up to you.
     
    #5 LeeroyVinland, Feb 4, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
  6. Koin-Koin

    Koin-Koin Well-Known Member

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    Just finished to watch every single vids from her channel. She's hilarious.
    Thanks so much for making me watch it.
     
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  7. jherazob

    jherazob Well-Known Member

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    So you think she's a... howl?
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Koin-Koin

    Koin-Koin Well-Known Member

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    I can't neither confirm nor deny this.
     
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  9. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that's kinda where I was with it before I saw what Dana is able to achieve. I would often photo my mini with a point source from above before priming so I could see where the light falls on the picture as I did blends and layers. That works, and works well, and you can do some interesting things with contrasting color shades pretty efficiently, but it takes a lot of time in my hands.

    For me this is about testing out a new technique, and seeing how far I can take it. I figure after twenty-odd O-12 models I will have a pretty good idea on whether this is going to work, and maybe other things that will enhance the technique in my hands. So far the key to maintaining contrast is super thin layers of glaze, especially in the shadows.

    Good suggestion on the washing in some arm shade on the gangbuster, I might do that.
     
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  10. LeeroyVinland

    LeeroyVinland O-12 Agent

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    Also if u wanna try undershading to the fullest I suggest u try inks. They work the best with zenithal pre shading.
     
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  11. LeeroyVinland

    LeeroyVinland O-12 Agent

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    Sorry for double positing but I wanted to add this youtube vid
     
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  12. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    Quick update - tonight was hobby night at the club. I worked up the beta trooper, which is a fun model to paint. Overall, I think this is better than the gangbuster - and painted up in about 60% the time (under 2.5 hours). The contrast is better this time b/c I protected the shadows (i.e., didn't coat them with too much glaze). Going to keep working on that, but promising.

    IMG_20200204_225118.jpg IMG_20200204_225131.jpg IMG_20200204_225142.jpg
     
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  13. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    A quick update on O-12 progress: the squad is coming together nicely. I've got the first batch of six models complete. Average time for a model is about 2.5 hours at this stage. The underpainting does a lot of heavy lifting if you let it. Working with the glazes is pretty forgiving as well - little mistakes are easy to remove before they set in - and I've not had any trouble with chipping or waterlines like I sometimes get with washes. The limited color scheme is also working better than expected - I was afraid working with essentially 4 different browns would make the palette too muddled, but the colors remain distinct to my eye.

    This is also my first time working with painted bases - it saves a lot of time and steps vs. my traditional ballast and static grasses approach, but I think I like the final look of those bases better than this. I'm thinking about punching them up a bit with some weathering powders, but we'll see once I get everyone painted up.

    Here's a group shot of the first six models.
    IMG_20200209_235932.jpg
     
  14. Tongfa

    Tongfa proudly selling out since 1991

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    Love it - got a real mgs4 vibe
     
  15. dlfleetw

    dlfleetw Well-Known Member
    Warcor

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    The painting itself is styled well and effective,but if I can offer an observation; the bases being hand painted and deeply saturated compared to the models is distracting to the eye and takes away from the work on the mini. Any plans to mute them down?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
     
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  16. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    Thanks and I agree. That's why I'm thinking to do the weathering powders. That should help to filter them down.
     
  17. Vanderbane

    Vanderbane Well-Known Member

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    Hey there - some more progress this week. all told, 4 new models join the O-12 party (siriusbot, deva, delta, and kappa). The deva and delta were fiddly to work with - not my favorite models to paint. But I'd paint 10 more of the Siriusbot - he's a riot(stopper?).

    IMG_20200216_220417.jpg
     
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