I was going through my painted mini photos, and I did not have a good back drop for most of them, so I have decided I will start with the stuff I started photographing when I had an okay backdrop for them. I picked it up at Adepticon when Spiral was released, so the first things I painted were for them.
I then took a pretty huge break and mostly worked on terrain. Downside is that I did not really get any minis painted, but the upside is I now have a full table of painted terrain. I do not know what the interest is like for terrain photos, but I did to a few vehicles as well which are really just larger minis, and I had a lot of fun painting them. These are the rovers for the research facility on the table. This is the Cube Jeager office vehicle. And this is the City Hopper for the City Hopper Office.
We have a scenery subforum. *wink* Pretty nice glass in vehicles and whatever the white clothes are looks intriguing. Mesh?
Not only an ace sculpter with green stuff, but an accomplishment painter too. Very nice! Please share more with us.
The first thing I painted up after finishing up my table was this. It is my first completed project out of Zbrush, The Drunk Monstrucker and his Drop Beers, printed and cast by Metal Oak Studios for the Rose City Raid, (which was unfortunately cancelled for 2020 and 2021). This was commissioned before we had seen a concept for the Monstrucker, so I came up with my own design. I learned a lot from painting and seeing it next to my other Infinity models, and have adjusted my scaling for later projects.
I bought this mini because I wanted to do this conversion, and wanted to paint up a practice model for when Defiance was released. This felt like something I could do on a number of models. For the Rasails I tried something different for their skin color. I am pretty happy with how it came out. I was also glad to finally paint up this conversion of a female Krakot.
The first TAG I have painted. It was a lot of fun, and I look forward to getting to paint the TAGs in my other armies...at some point. Also I realized I put the shoulder pads on upside down, but I had them penned in their so well I realized it would be more trouble than I felt was warranted.
i like what you do ther with Mustache Truker and His Beers :) - the effect of liquid in the glases is quite nice - actualy is on different lvl then all of you minis - any way congrats :)
Back around the time Major Lunah was released and people were painting her cloak with the snake print, I decided that Le Muet should have snake skin pants. Was finally able to put some time into him a few months ago.
Painted all the Kaauri, one of each plus a converted SMG and Sniper from before those minis were released. Then I finished up the last of my minis with Symbiont armor. The downside to the Kerail is that you have to paint it on to him yourself. I tried some different lighting on these photos, and I think it was a little too hot.
Just finished these up a few days ago, and I am going to take a break from Tohaa for a bit and paint up some Defiant Nox next, (and maybe sneak in some Surda and Mutan.)
So much nice! I really like the look of your models, and particular the jackets and pants combined with the skin tone for your Tohaa. Makes them look hardened and "realistic" but still alien. Great job! I'd also like to ask you about your recept for grey, and are you using the same grey for Tohaa and Shas?
Thanks! This is my process for painting the black-grey armor. Starting from a black base coat, I airbrush on a mix of Vallejo black and Dark Bluegrey (this is a Vallejo color that is just a slightly cooler grey). I concentrated on the areas I think would be highlighted. For these I figure the light source is over head, but there is some ambient and reflected light, so I hit most spots of the armor. The second step is to airbrush a mix of Ivory and Dark Bluegrey. This I focus on the more exposed areas where the most light would be hitting the surface. This can get a bit tricky as Ivory and White tend to want to spit in the airbrush more than other paints, so I mix it with extra care, and regularly clear the airbrush nozzle to prevent buildup on the needle. The next step I get a fine point brush and paint a watered down black into all the recesses in the armor. I also use this to maybe pick out some deeper shadows in the figure. Next I use a mix of about 2:1 Ivory and Dark Bluegrey and highlight the edges of the armor but stick mostly to areas where the most light would be hitting each piece. I sometimes will hit the bottom edge of the armor as well, for reflected light and to help define armor piece. I use a very watered down mix of Redbrown, and carefully apply it to the darker areas of the model. I will often have another worn out brush on standby to use to soak up any excess of the wash if it begins to pool in any of the recesses. I then do the same with a Turquoise, but this time focusing on the lightest parts of the armor. I have found these steps help give the armor just a little more visual volume, even if it is not very visible in photos. If I want to make the armor look extra shiny or sharp I would do another highlight of Ivory and just a touch of Dark Bluegrey and only apply it to the parts of the armor that get the most light.