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ARISTEIA! 3D print blocks

Discussion in 'Scenery' started by TopoSolitario, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    I tryed the acetone vapor on two brands of PLA with no results. It is for ABS. I've to try someday with a vibration cleaner (for reloading empty ammunition cases) but it is made for cleanin brass... so maybe with thinner sand and the lowest power it may do a good job on PLA.
     
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  2. Shingen

    Shingen Well-Known Member

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    That is true – acetone works only with ABS, and as my printer has opened build area, printing with ABS usually causes problems (not mentioning unpleasant, to say the least, smell). So I print exclusively with PLA and PETG. Liquids able to melt those can’t be stored or used without industrial grade security measures.

    Many people use different methods for smoothing out surfaces of the PLA prints, from sanding to sand blasting. None of those is ideal. Lately one of the filament suppliers (Polymaker, product brand PolySmooth) offered PLA grade plastic that melts in IPA vapours, and a machine which allows for application of adequate amount of alcohol. Haven’t tried it yet, and opinions are divided among users. What is certain with that line of products – the costs are steep for both – material and the machine.

    So right now I mostly print tools for building terrain from fome and small repetitive accents that are hard to do manually.
     
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  3. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    Maybe a heatgun for PLA?

    Also, why not make these containers two parts? Hollow bottom "tube" and then the top cap (that you glue later). The design looks perfect for such split.
     
  4. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Chlorine is what vapor smooths PLA. You don't want to do that.

    The two most common ways to smooth is sanding and covering over (usually a mix of the two). Common covers are very thick sprays of gloss varnish or a 2 part self leveling epoxy called XTC-3D. I use both. The gloss coats work but generally you need to combine that with sanding to some degree but you can build up enough layers to smooth something out.

     
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  5. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    It is fast to make such modification, but what is the purpose? I mean, what are you thinking to do with hollow tubes with cap? It seems to me that yo have something in mind :grinning:
    I can make the model like that and upload to Thingiverse as an additional option... but it is fastest to print a thick tube (with 20 to 40 infill) than having additional inner walls.
     
  6. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    For something like this I'd print slower, at least for the outer wall and top layer. Going slow, like 20-30mm/sec, and doing at least 3 shells will give you a better finish that's easier to clean up.

    I'd be surprised if you need more then 10% infill as well, probably could get away with 5% and 4 top shells.
     
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  7. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    I prefer a little more infill to add weight to the block... a little additional weight is noticeable when you need the blocks to stand where they're supposed to :grinning:

    Pieces are tall, so there is enough room inside to allow hot air to expand without bubbling the top surface... but still, with my printer (every printer has its own temperament) top surfaces are not as good as expected with infills less than 20%.
     
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  8. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    Yesterday, nothing, it was about saving material and time, assuming single wall would be enough or the double wall would use less than filling the whole hexagon (wall to wall, not 100% infill). For weight I would just fill it later with something cheap and fast (rocks, air drying clay left overs, sand, old bolts&nuts...).

    Today, now that you think something can be done... you could put a coin cell with a LED. As is (depending in thickness and material transparency), or maybe making extra holes with a drill. Or use the space to store some other thing.
     
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  9. deep-green-x

    deep-green-x Well-Known Member

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    You could try making a cast of the print in clear resin and adding an LED with button cell to illuminate it. Partially painting the resulting clear cast would give you an obstacle with glowing aspcts such as the symbols on top or the groves around the side.
     
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  10. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Why not just print in transparent PLA then? Same effect less effort.
     
  11. Willen

    Willen Well-Known Member

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    I am necro-ing this thread because the barriers are amazing, thank you Topo!

    Trying to print everything in resin I found strange interior holes in the obstacules, that my mere earthy skills cannot solve. I was wondering if it was possible to get a uniform, single BIG interior hole done in the inside. It has a strange topology preventing me doing this with normal slicing tools :(
     
  12. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    Good ole necromancy here! Models are not merged into a sigle mesh, so there are overlapping faces. Your best approach is to use some software like meshmixer to first unify the mesh (single mesh) and then add the hole you need to save plenty of resin. This tutorial is pretty good about how to achieve this using Meshmixer:



    I hope that helps a bit.
     
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  13. Willen

    Willen Well-Known Member

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    Gracias Topo! Will try that and see if I can improve the resin print.
     
  14. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    I answered you on private messages, and I've uploaded a "clean" version in the thingiverse page: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2769713/files

    I hope you can hollow them properly as now, the clean versions, are manifold and merged in only one shell.
     
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  15. Willen

    Willen Well-Known Member

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    The new barriers are so much better, even hollowing them out within Chitu and auto-supports for a quick print worked perfectly, thank you so much Topo! I will post pics of them here when I am done printing a set.
     
  16. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    Awesome!

    This online STL correction tool is pretty damn good to be free: https://www.formware.co/onlinestlrepair
    Only drawback is that more complex models (ones that take more than 4 minutes to repair) will fail. But for most personal projects, repairing and remeshing works amazingly well. Keep it in you favorites as it is a great tool to have at hand.
     
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  17. Willen

    Willen Well-Known Member

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    Pica of the amazing blocks and obstacles duly (quickly) painted.
    72323A39-BD10-4968-91FE-33E3027D4F30.jpeg

    Had a couple more pics but the forum is not allowing me to upload them, argh!
     
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  18. TopoSolitario

    TopoSolitario Well-Known Member

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    They look pretty good, minimalistic painting but really does the job with the high contrast red on gray

    Two thumbs up!
     
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  19. Willen

    Willen Well-Known Member

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    The barriers have a slight orange OSL from the inside, but all the walls where drybrushed and done in a day (yesterday). So I am pleased. And the 3D model is quite sharp, with enough good details to make drybrushing very effective.

    I might tone down the red on the lock yet but, tbh... they are amazing for the table as they are. So I will focus on painting the rest of the characters.
     
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