After a full year (almost) without any CB minis painted I'm heading to drastically reduce my backlog in 2019. I think I will first focus on the mechs I have: - O-Yoroi Kidobutai - Yaokong Remotes - Yaoxie Units Initially I was targeting the default painting scheme for the TAG but I'm not confident enough to work on so many white. Translating my blue/purple scheme to it does not look very appealing and this is the kind of mini that you want to be really proud of once painted so I'm looking for options. Regarding the remotes, the easy option is to keep my main blue scheme but I think it will be too monochromes. So I'm here to ask you guys to help me to find something quite impossible: how to paint them differently without looking like from a different faction. Here is a few pics of my actual scheme: Any ideas are welcome. As I don't have any urge to paint them (except the fact that I want to) I can afford to let your suggestions reach the proper level of maturation until I choose what to do. And BTW: all the best to everyone for 2019
Well, I painted my white O-Yoroi with Vallejo Model Color 70907 Pale Grey-Blue as the base, then highlighted with Vallejo Ivory. Lots of mixes in the middle, pure Ivory only on the reflecting edges.
That's pretty much what I had in mind when I considered the studio scheme. I cannot deny that it is both gorgeous and fit with almost any other colour scheme. Still, I'm quite afraid to try it on this one. I may try to find a test model first and see what I can achieve.
Forum is working fine for me. You can browse more here if it's still bugged on your side. And thanks for any incoming comment.
Now I can see pics on my work computer! Iphone using two browswers didn't work (go figure?)! I think blue will be fine for the remotes. However the O-Yoroi is from a unique sectorial in Yi Jing (well rebels now) so you probably want to go with a different colour scheme. Maybe not go with the studio white scheme as you say. How about red or dark blue? Or a combo of both as these are forgiving colours to paint. There are traditional JSA colours that use this combo of colours. If you want to go with colour theory maybe yellow is the way to go as this is split complimentary to your colour scheme. so yellow will really pop out but be coherent with your army. It'd be a little ironic however if your JSA were this colour given Yu Jing is usually yellow lol! Also yellow is hard to paint. Actually the colours you chose already for your Yu Jing are a little hard to match on the wheel but you are probably close to having an analogous theme of blue and violet. In this case you could tie in JSA units by choosing aqua blue. Not to hard to paint. Example: In any case there are many ways to go but you should consider colour theory a bit s oyou can find a colour tyhat ties your two different factions together but keeps them appart at the same time. :-)
Plenty of interesting information here. Thanks a lot. First a bit of background on my initial scheme: As I started painting mini with my first invicible, I choose to avoid yellow (too hard to start with) so blue was an easy choice. Then I get a starter set so I had to choose how the standard scheme could be transferred. I simply rotated the yellow to the blue and did the same rotation to the green. Then, I choose to keep 'neutral' colours as white black and grey as it. Nothing elaborate but in the end I'm happy with. So that explains why your suggestion goes back to yellow. As I don't think that I can really handle yellow, I will explore the other options you provide. As you also mentioned the different factions/sectorials is something I have to keep in mind as I also have JSA starter set waiting to be taken care of so having specific scheme but yet blending is something I should consider too. The final choice is far from being done but you helped me to go forward with that. Many thanks.
Random thoughts here after viewing this Painting Buddha's videos of a Cygnar Warjack: - what about keeping the blue scheme but trying to get a brighter and more poping blue than the one I get so far ? - why not trying some high contrast scheme as a bright color with some black parts ? Cons are, I'm no pro painter and one of my main issue with painting is ending with dark low contrast results :/
A great number of us on this forum aren't pros either. Just try your best and if it doesn't work out try, try again.
The trick to getting colors to 'pop' more is darker shadows and brighter highlights. But there is another trick you can use, it uses the old Heraldic rules. The Heraldic rules are designed for maximum contrast, assuming somewhat faded colors. In heraldry, white and yellow are considered metals (silver and gold, respectively). Everything else is a color*. You can put a color on a metal, or a metal on a color, but no metal-on-metal or color-on-color. So, if you have a panel highlighted towards white next to a panel highlighted towards yellow, you need to put a dark line between them (black is ideal, but may get a bit cartoony for your taste). * OK, there are technically two 'furs' as well, which are color patterns. But we're not getting into those.
Indeed, I was just pointing that in regard of the video references I provided. Still there's plenty on non-pro painters here who are way more experienced than I am I'm still a big noob here. A decent one I hope, but still one Not the kind of thing I was aware. Thanks a lot for this. I can see the drawing approach of such rules.
Re: popping colours. Koin-Koin, you probably need to shade your models a bit more to get things to pop better. This isn’t so noticeable on your LI and small HI because the purple divides areas nicely and things naturally pop out. However, the big guy looks a little flat as there are many areas that are blue and you haven’t applied shading to separate them. Indeed, the gun could also benefit from shading. You would need to fill in the gaps and joints in both the armour panels and the gun sections. You could use black ink wash to do this easily (Army Painter brand is pretty good). Or you can use watered down paint to do this also (dark blue for the armour and black for the gun). This will really help As an example, I used dark blue in the gaps of this guy's armour panels and black for the grey areas:
Thanks a lot for those advices. Those are definitely things I need to work out. I know that I also tend to reach a "no more effort on it" limit sometimes when I spend a lot of time on a mini even if I know that it could improve the end results. My hopes are that last year's painting projects helped me to speed up my painting so I should be able to put more effort within the same time.
I've been heavy on wash at first and now I tend to use it with a bit more subtlety but they are still part of my standard paint job. So small efforts like these have already been done when I reach the limit There's already some places I know I should put some effort - pushing the highlight further (with potentially better shadow work) - improve blending - better use of lining For sure the list is far from being exhaustive but I think it's a good start. I hoped to be back on Infinity painting this month but my agenda filled in pretty quickly without warning I think I still need some time to think the tag so I will certainly go in this order: - Yan Huo Invincible with missile launcher (same as the previous so should be a good warm up). - at least one of the remote units. The others may be done right after depending on the result.
I'm back looking at some color scheme for this beast. I think I can easily convert the tutorial posted on corvus belli blog (part 1 & part 2) from red to blue but I'm not convinced by a pure blue scheme. Maybe something like that can work (now the issue is to work black properly) I found this which looks like a fun option. But paint choice can be tricky to get a working gradient, plus highlight way be even trickier. I'm thinking about something based on turquoise too but have no idea which paints I should use beside turquoise (I already have VMC 70966 and VGC 72024 which is a start). Kinda frustrating to be stuck in such a dead end.
Ok, so being frustrated ended in doing thing pretty randomly as I had to paint it whatever the result will be. So I'm trying to figure a recipe for turquoise and it's working not as worse as I could expect. I have to take more pics as the setting fades the contrast a lot.
Ok. After more than one hour trying to remove all the liquid mask, it ended that the saber unglued, one of the pinned foot is unpinned, liquid mask was either covering too much or not enough, some paint was ripped of the mini... So I have no choice but to strip it and restart from scratch. Anyway here is the result: Spoiler: Bad unmasking But there is something good to get from bad things, so I've learned a few things. The art liquid mask I used is either not suited for this use or turned bad for any reason (I more on the first option). The scheme is working. Not exactly the tone I had in mind but I can continue with some tuning. Funny thing; the liquid mask remaining in the recesses act as a black lining and helps me to see what I should do to get a proper contrast on the mini (basically what @Section9 and others told me ^^). I'm still missing some airbrush control to work the NMM part with it. Maybe with the arms not glued I could have better result. Too liquid mask can't be controlled so it run in place you don't want to. And there is no way to correct it. Wetting the silicon brush helped a lot but I realised it way too late. I may try to do some edge highlighting to see what I can achieve before stripping it.
