I've had the same problems as many of you guys. I suggest using pinning to attach the loose arm part to the gun, so that both arms are attached at the hand/wrist assembly. If you use a soft standard metal wire or plastic rod, you can easily adjust the positions of the arms to fit the assembly points at the body. Using a bit of putty, like suggested earlier, to get the arm in the right position, and then glue to fix the parts in place. Pinning both arms to the gun is a bit easier to work with, than fixing the parts with putty (more fixed, but still flexible). Only problem can be the size of the parts you wish to pin. Some of the female arms are really thin, and requires practise to pin, if at all possible.
So yesterday I've assembled almost entire Bahram box (new one), including everything posed as in question. I suppose I can say that newer models aren't as bad in this regard.
Dry fit as much as possible, prepare to bend one or two to fit because they tend to warp a little bit in the packaging.
just my 10 cents, but I've found that the gel superglue doesn't lend itself well to humidity. I use it for the most part, but then there are times that I have to use my Krazy Glue because the gel stuff just takes forever to dry. She is a fickle mistress! lol!
I admit I was putting together the female Muttawi'ah today (the one with the shotgun) and got close to starting screaming at it... I just couldn't get the arms into position - as usual, as I got one into place and started positioning the other one, I managed to knock the first one off. :\ Assembling this one mini took me nearly 2 hours! And it will not look too good, considering the amount of greenstuff that got stuck to it and really awkward look of the joints... Seriously, why are those minis so hard to assemble? I want to get to things out of Infinity: fun from painting and fun from playing the game. What I don't want is enormous frustration due to my inability to assemble the minis... Sometimes, I feel like the CB people expect us to have two or three sets of arms with super-precise fingers - or, better, access to finely-controlled telekinetic powers. These seems to be the only ways of assembling some of the minis...
Either I did not have particular trouble with that Mutt, or the experience was too traumatic and my brain wards of any memories from my consciousness. Yesterday I've assembled new muyibs and I think I still stand by my statement that newer models are much better in terms of how parts fit each other. I still had some minor issues with spitfire model though. But nothing too bad overall, so either it really got better or I've just adapted (read: stopped raging about having troubles with assembling stuff).
I was a actually thinking about this thread when I was putting together my new haqqislam army last night. One big key to doing this you glue down the gun arm, then you start the second connection by applying some glue to the wrist and second shoulder connection, but START YOUR ASSEMBLY AT THE WRIST! A lot of people try to force the assembly after gluing both shoulders, and that will lead to nothing but frustration. There is a little bit of wiggle room at each shoulder connection for this reason. I hope this helps!
Hmmm. You say this works? I mean, the wrists are usually very, very tiny. I wouldn't expect for the connection to hold when assembling the arm this way... But I don't know... Sometimes, I feel this may be just me who sucks at this. :( Today, I've been assembling a Barid - a really simple mini, two arms not connecting in any way etc. Still, I didn't manage to glue the mini at the first attempt: I glued the ams to the torso, but when I was trying to attach the head, I ended up knocking both of the arms off :( Now, I need to bath the mini in acetone to get rid of the glue and attempt a second assembly one week from now... On the other hand, some of the minis are really insane when it comes to the joins. The HMG Govad has a joint in the middle of her arm, with the arm being around 1,5 mm thin. I honestly believe it's impossible to assemble this arm by the way of connecting the slots - at least, I was able to assemble it only by putting a lot of greenstuff onto the connection. Of course, the mini will look dreadful that way... *groans*
Well... I'm probably not the best person to ask (I don't mean this sarcastically, I really think I've been doing this so long, it's kinda rote for me - last year assembled about 150 infinity models). I have a LOT of experience putting together models, so sometimes I forget what in the pain in the ass this must be, though that is how I typically do it. I also make liberal use of glue accellerant - which I find also helps. The good news is that Corvus recognized this is a problem! The new JSA models are a snap to put together, and from what I understand, we will be seeing more like them in the future!! I'd try the wrist to shoulder technique and go from there. Practice makes perfect, dude.
I’ve had very good success with pinning and 15 min epoxy. I use brass rod for the pins and the glue all three joints at the same time (both shoulders and the wrist connection). I use a bit of blue-tac to hold the parts in alignment and let it sit for a day. They are rock solid afterwards. Cyanocrylate always seems too brittle to me, especially as the joint ages. Epoxy and pinning saves ever having to go back and repair things.
Hmmm. Okay, let's talk glues, guys. What glues do you use for Infinity minis? I keep using the CA glue...
I checked. Unfortunately, it seems to be virtually impossible to order that glue here in Poland... I mean, I could buy it on eBay, but the shipping costs would ruin me. BTW. In what way is a gel-based superglue better than a normal superglue? Aside from the fact that it's very thick? BTW 2. Any opinion on Tamiya's gel-based CA glue / cement? We have it around here...
ALL "superglues" are cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA) yes. It's ("Superglue") a trademark name for the first of its kind. I've used epoxies on metals in the past, but they also age badly and are just as bad with temperature extremes (a hot car interior can break an epoxy bond just as much as freezing can break a superglue one).
Gel superglues have filling properties, and recent ones also have some flexibility (advertised as rubber reinforced, shock proof or terms like that). You can achieve similar results using tricks, like epoxy putty (Kneadatite or Procreate kinds, flexible) or sodium bicarbonate (sprinkled in the hole, ends rigid and sandable) fillers. The work method is different, with gel you apply and press parts, the liquid ones sometimes require to place parts and then let the glue get in, or when using putty, reglue after the putty cured with the right shape if you don't use the sandwich method (part, glue, putty, glue, other part... and clean up anything that gets out). Don't we have some posts about all this? Maybe in previous forum?
