I have had good results with thin PVA (the local home improvement store sells it as a "bookbinder's PVA glue"). Even if using regular printer paper on cardboard. Just make sure you spread the glue in a thin layer before putting the pieces together. And that oyu let it dry well before you start doing anything more with it. Even better with thick paper stock (sold here as "business card paper"), though the laser printer I have access to now can't, sadly, handle it. I haven't used this technique with the tokens and 1-inch punch, my bad! I'll have to correct that mistake! :)
If you're willing to spend a tad more on the printing itself and remove the hassle of gluing, I had great success getting the tokens printed onto "sticker sheets" in a printing store, which are also nice and glossy. Then just cutting them out and you can stick them onto whatever base you prefer, cardboard, acrylic,...
Digging this thread out for a bit, as I've just finished upgrading my token set to N4 standard, and I'm really happy with how it turned out. I did just that - printed token sheets on sticky paper, punched them out, and glued onto standard 25mm bases. Back in N3 I also went through the chore of sticking a magnet underneath each of those, so yay, magnetized tokens. I also went with gloss varnish instead of matte one for the coating, and I'm quite pleased with the end result. Spoiler @toadchild, @Lawson, one more time - thanks for all the work you guys did put into this.
Awesome, thanks for sharing. In other news, I believe that the Booty Chart has changed recently to match the ITS Panoply Chart (now that we have TAGs with Booty it makes sense I guess). As a result I will be making some minor tweaks to the Booty tokens at some point.
Hey all, just a note that I've finally updated these for the newer rules (where Booty is the same chart as Panoply). The links remain the same.
@Lawson I don't know if you're still working on your tokens, but if you are I have a suggestion for another two :-) The Regeneration rule says that if the unit takes a wound, we're supposed to put a Regen token next to it as a reminder. Nobody ever does, but I'd like to start doing it as I think it's good practice to remind the opponent of units that have Regen (especially if they're Unconscious). You already have a Regen token which is what the rules say to use, but I don't like having to put out two tokens - one for Wounded or Unconscious and a second for Regen. I would be cool to combine them, so have a token denoting "Wounded with Regen" and another denoting "Unconscious with Regen." Ideally they should be a different colour than the usual red, so as to stand out to the opponent. Maybe a sort of hazard yellow? Y'know, if you're so inclined :-)
Can u increase the numbers of the camos over 10. When playing Tak, i need more than that cause of decoys. In booty markers. Theres odd instead of mimetism -6. And 8 4 movement instead of motorcyle. Can u revise it
Say what? Lawson's Booty tokens sheet lists Mimetism -6 as Booty #19, and MOV 8-4 as Booty #15. Exactly as it should be. Booty no longer gives you a Motorcycle (thus changing your Silhouette), and ODD is no longer in the game: it got replaced by Mimetism -6 as the transition from N3 to N4...
Original idea was to further differentiate tokens with the various camo colors, so you could have 1-9 of green camo, grey camo, etc. to help with identification or combat groups or whatever, but let me see if I can increase these as well without creating too much additional work for myself.
If you can only do it for S2 it is enough, (green and grey maybe) i take generally 2 strelok minelayer , one FO strelok, a spetsnaz , a tankhunter and a beastmaster for instance. these totally needs 12 camo tokens even in the beginning of the game. And i may need to use some camo tokens later in the game.
I haven't created new versions of the faction logos since they already existed in the old token creator for N3 - they should be at the bottom of that page.
I just to add that I am super excited in trying my hand at making these amazing tokens a 3D STL that can be printed. Quite a bit a work, and still need to print to test them, but if they are successful these are going to look amazing on the table.
Looking great! If you’re intending to support them make sure to place them at an angle (which I’m sure you know but thought I’d mention it). Printing them as is on the build plate should also work. I wonder how they’d look in a transparent coloured resin? Probably best not to though, sometimes the detail is very hard to see on those. Let us know how they turn out!
Yeah, I am pretty used to resin printing by now, and will surely support mine at an angle. Printing them in clear resin could be interesting but then... I will release STL when done and then we can all do what we want! That is the beauty, can be easily scalable to 15mm, 40mm whatever, and then painted. Just one more option tbh.
