You can get smaller bits than that. I have some bits that go down to .3mm (I got my bits from an electronics hobby supply store in Oz, so other places should also be able to get something like them). If I remember my conversions to that weird unit the US uses (thousandths of an inch, or "thou"), it's about 12 thou. Does require REALLY steady hands, as if you don't hold it perpendicular to the surface, you risk snapping them from the torque. I found it was just the right size for some really thin paperclips that I had. Failing that, enlarging the slot that the belt goes into could be an option (a few holes side by side with that drill bit should do it). It CAN be done by hand, but it does take some skill and practice and a really steady hand.
Yeah the enlarging method is what I eventually went with, though like I said it still ended up coming apart post-priming and I just gave up. If I cared more about the armed variants of the Panggulings I might have kept wrestling with it, but I figure if I want armed remotes I'll just pick up the Yaoxie or just proxy some Yaokong as Long Ya. For me it's more an issue of design... they could've easily created a more secure slot so that the belt fit into the body the same way it fits into the gun (which is admittedly still a bit janky). I actually just checked and I do have some (unopened) bits as small as .3mm, but my actual pin vise doesn't tighten down enough to clamp them even on the smaller side setting. C'est la vie. I don't have enough patience anyway and would likely snap it immediately.
As it is manual (slow) not for a power drill (fast, vibrations), wrap painters tape around. And use oil or soap while drilling. But yeah, icky task.
Apologies I probably defaulted on memory from resin copies that I know for effect CB does not produce (Even in the event of the first A! models shown the models were metal and not resin copies) to 3D prints from resin printer that they use solely for the production of master molds, a much more plausible scenario that finding out another company to produce resin molds from the 3D prints, as I said above they cast metal models for the master molds from the 3D print and not cast the 3D print to resin and the resin to master mold. I will keep waiting, the production of evidence for a story like yours is on you to show and not for anyone else to go look for themselves, honestly if they did what you say the picture above, and a few others, would not exist.
The ammo belts are separate from the guns. I've pinned some awful models before with some tiny ass pins, but I don't think those are a possibility.
I had similar problem with Iguana's ammo belt. I'd suggest getting rubber ammo belts from Zinge Industries. They don't snap off so easily and have a wire inside so you can pin it.
"Evidence"? Just because you refuse to believe in what is an industry standard for preproduction metal models? You're absolutely ridiculous. It's not on me to educate you if you refuse to broaden your own horizons and erase your own ignorance. Honestly, you still have no idea what you're talking about or you're stubbornly refusing to understand the difference between the two cases. What was required for a quick preproduction run for painters, in case of spincast metal models, may well not be required in case of Siocast models. Neither of us is a casting specialist, you have no idea why they gave a direct cast Siocast mini to the current painters. Is that because you can get them faster than metal minis that previously required a quick resin cast off the master mould? Is it because they had them premade well ahead of time? Is it because the Siocast mould cannot be used to resin cast? We both don't know, so stop talking as if you had any idea.
I think you do not understand, I know well how the industry works, I also know how CB works, because other companies in they industry may do what you say, and they do, it does not mean CB does that, what I do not understand is why you insist to authoritatively state what CB does when you do not have knowledge about it. Yes, many companies paint resin models instead of production copies for their store/packaging photographs instead of using production models, CB does not do that, but you insist they do. You have made quite a few statements in this thread, all authoritative, none supported.
For the ammo belts, it is possible but a total nightmare. I would suggest a small amount of green stuff and super glue but due to the weight and position of these particular ammo belts they can be a pain. I’ve picked up my own and they’ve come loose on more than one occasion. My friend pinned his with what appears to have been an amount of patience that I didn’t believe existed. Good luck, whatever you decide! (Alternatively the rubber ammo belts mentioned in this thread are great too).
Look into glue accelerators. You dab / spray one side of the connection with that, glue on the other and join them. The connection is immediately hardened to stone. Baking soda also does that but creates a "stone texture" if the glue pours out, which may or may not be what you're looking for.
Yes, this. Forgot to mention this. For those interested in the process of glue accelerators (either the spray can or baking soda method) please look on YouTube. The bond is quite strong. There are a plethora of videos. Unfortunately for my mini the model gods seem fickle. Damn thing just breaks whenever I pick it up. Probably why it just sits on its shelf now. I really should strip it in a sonic bath and reassemble it using stronger bonding methods.
I see no shifting goalposts, I know CB does not use preproduction resin, anybody who has done their factory tour will tell you they make master molds directly from the 3D prints, master miniatures are in metal and there is no resin casting equipment in the factory. You said Angel stated it, I said fair enouph, it is not what I know of, you definitely can find were he stated it.
@Nuada Airgetlam this may come off as harsh, but you're the one making the claim here without the proof backing it up and you're the one moving the goal post by requiring PS to show proof of how CB does it when you're the one making the claim. It is way past time you flip that [citation needed] to something substantiated or to back off.
Hammer- those two parallel lines are of no concern, might as well represent cracks in the handle. Weapon - I've frequently seen similar and worse examples on the metal miniatures. Nothing new or concerning. It might be more annoying to clean with the new material, but does not represent a downgrade in the quality. Ear - This is indeed fairly annoying. We knew that mold lines over fur will be the worst to deal with, but I hoped that the head, being a small and separate piece will not have prominent ones. This is fixable, although not with classical pinning. See the two faint lines, where the belt links should be? I've drawn a white line over each in the picture. You can glue thin wires there, which will look like a more pronounced belt and will hold the pieces together. You can even use a hobby knife to make indentations so they fit better, but that'll be fiddly and might draw a bit of blood if the blade slips. https://i.imgur.com/eVgTzEG.png
I disagree. This looks like cracked paint, similar to how paint cracks on long, slim resin elements during stress. In my opinion this is an indicator of how bendy the handle is, which is backed up further with real life Vostok experience. To quote myself: This ain't worse from mold lines and cast shifts going through S2 faces, hair, eyes. It's just an indicator of how new material is a bitch to prepare compared to metal - when official painter skips on cleaning such a visible flaw.
You can try Tamiya 0,2 or 0,3 mm. drill bits. They works with standard pin vice. And are quite tought. Kinda on expensive side to.
.5 mm pins seem to work pretty well for stuff like this. I did the back nubs on the old Shas (like the Malignos) this way. Oh, I was talking about with the Traktor Mul weapon attachment points. There are .5 mm pinning setups out there, I find it useful for CB minis.
The burden of proof is always on the person making the claim. Always. Just saying "look it up" doesn't cut it. If Angel said it multiple times and it's so easy to find, then post a link. If not, we'll assume you are making stuff up again.
