Thanks! I think I will start up another thread of all the stuff I have painted once I am finished cataloging the conversions. It is mostly Tohaa as I really want to finish them off so I can have at least one fully painted collection before getting too distracted by my other armies.
For cloaks and jackets I generally follow these same steps. I lightly wet a piece of plastic with water, (I am using a plastic sleeve from some greenstuff I purchased years ago, but a the plastic from a blister pack will work as well), and shape and smooth the greenstuff into the approximate shape I want, using an hobby knife to cut straight edges if needed. (my apologies for the potato photo), The next step is to sculpt in some of the stitching or embroidery detail and refine the shape, such as adding the cleft. If it is just line work I use a hobby knife with a #12 blade. It is a short rounded blade and it allows me to rock the blade to press in a shape rather than having to drag it like I would have to with a straight blade. I will let that set for rough 3-4 hours. This lets the green stuff to harden up enough that it rebounds when pressed into, but not fully set and still flexible. Once it is at this point I will carefully pry it off of the plastic using the hobby knife or other metal tools. This can be a little tricky depending on how thick the green stuff is. The thinner it is the better it will look on the model, but the greater the risk of it ripping. As show on the second photo, the backside will likely look pretty rough. With the greenstuff still not full set I will place it onto the model where I want it and cut away any excess. I will secure it with some super glue if I need too and use whatever handy things that may be around to prop up and hold the cloth in the shape I want it to flow, and then I let the greenstuff set completely. Once the greenstuff has hardened, I will place some lines of greensuff where I want there to be large folds in the cloth. (I will need to do this on both sides, and because the other side needs a lot more clean up I like to do the less damaged side first so that once it is hardened I can work on the other side and have a harder surface to brace against while I smooth it out.) I then shape the green stuff into ridges and leaving valleys. Once this is dry I will need to do the other side, and will need to make sure the ridges correspond with the valley areas on the opposite side. I try to make the transitions as smooth as possible, but I have found that If I can use a fine grit sand paper to sand out any rough spots once the greenstuff has hardened. This is the final conversion of a Grenzer missile launcher.
With the spare Kealtar helmet and no update to the Ectross looking to come anytime soon, I converted a Vulkan Shotgun Ectross. I did not think McMannus looked characterful enough to really stand out as a unique unit on his own, but also was different enough from the regular scout concept that he would not blend well as a proxy, so I figured I could meet halfway. Having ordered Defiance and awaiting a shipment of too many Shasvastii, I was stuck trying to come up with a paint scheme, and I thought working off of the scheme of the Galactic Federation from Rick and Morty work pretty well. I needed a model to test the scheme on, and I decided I should give him some goggles as a subtle nod to Krombopulos Michael, that way I could use him as a spec ops if I ever played Shasvastii. When the release of the Civilian pack came out early last year, I came up with an idea for a Daktari. I think with this conversion of Rum Tum Tugger, I could probably hang up my greenstuff forever, because I doubt I will ever come up with a better idea. I won another Zondnautica and decided I should change up the pose of the Zondmate, and swap out the spitfire for a boarding shotgun to give me a different profile to use. I finally decided to work on the conversion I had felt was not fully complete. I had added the crab to the Daiyokai's had a few years prior, but having seen some great weapon swaps by The Dice Abide, I felt the two katana just were not enough. However I did not want to copy the conversions I had seen, and it took me a long time to decide to leave one of the katanas, but make the other hand holding a siege hammer that I had seen on some Japanese woodcuts. Really looking forward to painting this unit up.
Getting more time at home, I took some time to work on a dismounted Kuroshi Rider. I took a bit of a break from working on conversions to make a serious push to paint up all of my terrain for my first table. Afterwards I had been thinking about how all the new Kaldstrom line troops were dressed in appropriate winter gear, but that some people may worry about their Zanshi and Fusillier special weapons teams would freeze to death, so I did a series of videos on how to sculpt appropriate jackets onto them. Lately I have been working on mostly converting Bloodbowl for my videos, but I did manage to to repair a ninja after removing the dragon base, and finish up another Gorgos Pilot conversion I had been sitting on since back when I made the box for the Avatar to step on. Once I have finished up with my current project to convert Zolcath the Zoat I will be working on a few more Infinity things, such as a reposed Grenzer, Anaconda, and a male Cheerkiller. Not necessarily in that order.
I stream on Twitch on Mondays as Nehemiah405 and post the videos to my Youtube channel Nehemiah Hobby a day or two later.
Great collection, incredible hand made going along with computer scultps. Knowing that the worst was rushed explains a lot about it, because the average level is high. Some really good fixes like the Ninja. Just one thing, in case you do not have painted it yet... the Veteran HMG issue wasn't only the "flying" bullets, but the "hollow" armpit. If you could fix that one, it would make a good demo of how the miniature should have been.
I do not recall this issue. I have only primed the Kazak so far, but I do not see the problem with the armpit.
https://forum.corvusbelli.com/threads/request-new-veteran-kazak-pictures.23530/ https://www.facebook.com/PookyPaint...492517816302/2257492484482972/?type=3&theater That shoulder is magic. ;)
I am still unsure what you are trying to illustrate. Are you referring to how the belt wraps over the shoulder in an odd way?
I've never noticed it before, but please correct me if I am wrong - it would appear that the ammo belt feeds by hooping over the top of the shoulder then vanishing into the upper arm section and coming out of the elbow joint. I could well imagine the drama you'd have every round fired getting caught on all your gear straps and plates, chaffing your arm etc, not least of all the removal of some of the arm to accomodate ;) *to add, if it was meant to be an enclosed ammo feeding rig like on the m134 Vulcan, but tucked under the armpit (why would you?), then they needed to cover the rounds more.
The feeder belt goes up over shoulder, then twists weirdly, to reappear behind the elbow going down. It's hard to see how the armour, flesh and belt all fit there, and even more so how the bullets will go smoothly. The real things are (were?) used differently (examples 1 2 3) and while flexible (belt demo), not absurd "rubber".
I think it was more work than I wanted to put in at the time, but I have not painted him yet, so maybe I will strip off the primer at some point and take a crack at this. I would need to remove the belt from the back and make a larger ammo pack, (the one if feeds into is pretty small), so there would be a decent amount of repair sculpting that would need to be done.
You do what we all wish CB would do. Give us more minis and weapons options for our existing armies! :-D Great work.
Finished up an Anaconda for my Spiral Corps. I may get an HMG for it at some point and have it strapped to it, but for know it is just ready to gut someone.
I am at a loss for words; I have never seen greenstuff work at this level and as someone who recently started sculpting and is capable of sort of blobby and cartoony masses like my pfp this is seriously inspiring.