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Big appeal to CB: Fix the new bases! Improve the assembly system!

Discussion in 'News' started by Varsovian, Feb 26, 2020.

  1. tox

    tox SorriBarai
    Warcor

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    With all of the new models, my only concern is about Dakini feet-legs joint.
    I've not been experiencing any problem for YEARS now.

    OTOH, old models can bring some weirdness.

    Same story with facing. New models are designed to exactly face the front, you just need to check before if they are to be mounted one way or the other. Old models, again, where not designed with this in mind, you you may need to create your own slot (cutting away the metal band onde the feet, sometimes leaving only pegs, sometimes only with pinning).
     
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  2. QueensGambit

    QueensGambit Chickenbot herder

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    I dunno, I recently assembled the new Dronbots and half of Kaldstrom, and it was an absolute joy compared to the old stuff. Like snapping together Legos. I think they've done a fantastic job revamping the assembly method.

    Even the old stuff wasn't that bad. Mostly I didn't like trying to put together arms where both hands were holding the gun. And the old remotes were kind of terrible. But otherwise it was fine.

    Some gap filling is often needed, so I suppose the precision of the casting could be improved so that the pieces fit together even more perfectly. But I always assumed that gap filling is just part of making minis. I've never assembled GW or any other minis, so maybe I'm wrong and those go together without gaps.

    I don't think the stock bases are supposed to be very good. They're there for players who just want to get their models on the table for a minimum of effort, and they're fine for that. Anyone else is going to use custom basing, anyway.
     
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  3. Xeurian

    Xeurian Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious, which action pack did you get? All of the recent Infinity minis I've assembled were probably the easiest minis I've ever put together. The new bases with the Line of Sight bits were really tough to cut when I did need to cut them. I was more worried about breaking my tools than the bases themselves.
     
  4. Pen-dragon

    Pen-dragon Deva

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    I too did not care for the Line of sight markings on some recent figures. I use the bar to make a very secure connection to the base, and when using the bar, the Line of Sight markings did not coincide with what I felt was the 'front' of the miniature. I ended up cutting off and sanding down the LOS protrusions, and then just painting my LOS designations like I normally do. In the future, I will probably just buy some generic bases, and throw the supplied bases away. Not ideal.
     
  5. MikeWy

    MikeWy Well-Known Member

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    0-12 vanilla, I don't know if it is the models or the glue (3m super glue) but some of the parts are just too heavy compared to their connecting point. The smallest models were easy, but Goldstein was a pain in the cookie jar and I still can't get a strong enough hold. Loads of bits of metal required cutting off and the plastic over the slits in the bases is too thick, back in the days of Warhammer fantasy I never had issues with metal models or bases with slits, they were made to a much better standard (though I do like the detail on infinity models)
     
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  6. MikeWy

    MikeWy Well-Known Member

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    I broke two of my bases, replaced with some wooden bases which I actually think are better but cutting the metal off that was meant to go into the slits was a little annoying, though mostly because my pliers are too big =p. I have learnt today a leatherman is not the ideal tool for model building.
     
  7. chromedog

    chromedog Less than significant minion

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    A 1mm joint isn't really a problem. I've pinned 1mm joints before - but I started with metal minis, not this johnny-cum-lately-multi-pose-plastics malarkey - so I had to develop those skills.

    I usually trim that bar into 2 pegs and file them round (so they are easier to fit into round holes. When it's a bar and one foot, then it gets cut back to one peg.

    Clippers and a file.
    You can also use a razor saw, but mine is used more for bigger surgeries. Like removing limbs.
     
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  8. Dragonstriker

    Dragonstriker That wizard came from the moon.

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    Did you clean the parts? Did you use fresh CA glue?
    No offence intended, but it sounds like you’re blaming the models for poor technique.
     
    #48 Dragonstriker, Aug 28, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2020
    chromedog likes this.
  9. fari

    fari CRISTASOL, EL LIQUIDO DE LOS DIOSES

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    I assembled yesterday half of the kaldstrom box for a newbie friend and i had no problem at all facing the miniatures with the LoF of the bases
     
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  10. MikeWy

    MikeWy Well-Known Member

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    The bases was partly my fault, I used a knife and file that was too big, but compared to games workshop they are defiantly inferior sorry, the old Warhammer fantasy bases were much easier to cut, and I never had issues with models being too heavy before.

    Not saying I am skilled at all but that my is my point, if you are new to the hobby you won't be skilled at putting models together. Games workshop models are far superior in my opinion. Sure if you have a lot of experience and don't mind pinning etc it is fine but not great for someone new. Speaking to others in my community I have heard nothing but complaints about building the models, one person I spoke too even quit because of it (two years ago though)
     
    #50 MikeWy, Aug 29, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2020
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  11. colbrook

    colbrook Grenade Delivery Specialist

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    I've tried 3M superglue in the past (it was all I could find during Covid lockdown) and it's frankly garbage. Try some Gorilla superglue, it sets much faster and holds really well. I put together the O-12 action pack in less than an evening, though I've been working with metal minis for close to a decade now.

    Metal is harder to work with than plastic, there's no two ways about it, but there are lots of little tricks you can try.

    1) Score the joints, this increases surface area so your glue has more surface to cling to.

    2) Give the glue a few extra minutes to cure even after the glue appears set, I'll work on several models at once so 3-4 are curing at any one time.

    3) Don't try and re-glue a joint that's broken, you'll have dried glue left over that'll cause any subsequent bond to be weaker. Clean the surfaces with some rubbing alcohol or acetone (nail varnish remover) on a Q-tip

    4) Cyanoacrylate glue doesn't last forever, especially those little 3g tubes. Once opened it slowly goes off and loses potency. That half bottle that's been sat in your desk for 6 months is probably going to be harder to work with than you remember.

    5) You can mortar a joint, techniques vary from a tiny ball of blutac, or modeling putty/green stuff, but my favourite technique is a tiny piece of tissue, it soaks up the glue and sets like cement.

    6) Pinning will give you a rock hard joint, but it's a faff. I don't find it necessary myself (and I shipped 200+ Infinity models across an ocean and a sea by cargo ship with no breakages.)

    7) Not an assembly tip per se, but varnish your models after you paint them. Metals chip easier so it'll protect your paintjobs in the long run. I also think a matt varnish really suits the manga/comic book aesthetic of Infinity.
     
  12. Errhile

    Errhile A traveller on the Silk Road

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    Wow, man. I would never have thought about using a multitool for that, except for the rare moment where I find pliers necessary. Honestly.

    I think you need to buy yourself a hobby knife and some needle files. A drill and some bits (for pinning) could get useful, too. I'd keep away from GW tools, though, they seem to be way overpriced.

    No offence meant, but you've essentially just described what would be trying to repair a watch with a sledgehammer ;) You need some proper tools for that!
     
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  13. KedzioR_vo

    KedzioR_vo Well-Known Member
    Warcor

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    I've read the thread earlier and thought that it doesn't make sense to write anything but that opinion changed my mind:

    No. Just no.
    Don't tell me GW made a much better standard in their minis, because it's not true. I've made hundreds of their miniatures, plastics, metals, and don't even get me started on failcast.
    Getting my first Infinity models was like jumping on a whole new level. The miniatures, the details. Ofcourse some were harder to put together, but it was a problem with the old ones - the new ones are like LEGO.

    We can discuss some subjective feelings (of having a good taste or not), but looking objectively Infinity miniatures are way better than any of GW.
    And I agree that it's propably easier to put together this:

    [​IMG]

    than this:

    [​IMG]

    It's totally understandable - the difference in scale, details, proportions, slenderness, just pure quality... All of that makes for a beautiful Infinity miniatures - and it's totally worth it to learn how to assemble and paint them.

    But it's everyone's choice - whether to have GW's heroic bulky out of proportion dudes or something nice ;)

    [​IMG]


    PozdRawiam / Greetings
     
  14. Benkei

    Benkei Well-Known Member

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    Eeeh... Infinity minis are great, but they are pretty clearly not better than GW minis: you can like them more and that's OK, but the amount of flash and strange joining points that don't match Infinity minis have is nowhere to be seen for GW minis. It's better than some years ago, but still awful and infuriating in some cases. Also, I wouldn't go with "out of proportion/scale" issues if you want to champion CB's cause.

    About esthetics, well, they are different styles and tbh GW has been knocking it out of the park for some years now; I also love Infinity minis, just different styles. At least with GW you can easily tell factions apart as they have really different aesthetics, you could paint that Kappa red and say it's a Nomad and nobody would care.


    Also, kinda a flawed and weighed comparison when you choose an easy to build mini as example, and also GW's painting studio always goes with simple techniques anybody can do. Maybe you could have chosen a not 3 per 1 buck mini painted by a pro.
     
    #54 Benkei, Aug 29, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2020
  15. SpectralOwl

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    Eh, I had to put together some old Dark Eldar once. All the stupid spikes and tiny elf joints were painful to say the least. Infinity was bad as well to start with, especially the LI women with miniscule shoulders, and I started with the Red Veil era YJ starter which is fairly new. However, even when I was completely new to mini wargaming I could put together a Zuyong just fine, so assembly difficulty has probably got a fair bit to do with scale.

    Infinity bases are a crapshoot though. About 1 in 3 seem to come out absurdly hard, and have to be basically chiselled through to use the bar on the base of the mini. I've never had a base snap, however, even the one I had to work at for half an hour with the back point of a file.
     
  16. Red Harvest

    Red Harvest Day in, Day out. Day in, Day out. Day in, DAY OUT

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    You want to assemble some metal miniatures? Get the right tools.

    First, a jeweler's saw, like this https://www.amazon.com/Megacast-GERMAN-JEWELERS-ASSORTED-BLADES/dp/B07PJYDFVV/

    Second, a nice set of files, like these https://www.amazon.com/Hardened-Strength-Barrette-Crossing-Equaling/dp/B07PPYWSCY/

    Third, a decent tabletop vise, something in this style https://www.amazon.com/Fasmov-Swivel-Universal-Table-Rotate/dp/B077XXQG41/ or even one that uses a vacuum to clamp it to the tabletop. Vacuum clamping is a PITA. But if you like frustration, and you are working with metal minis so clearly you do, then you could use one well enough.

    Fourth, the usual collection of hobby knives. I don't need a link for an example for these, do I?

    Fifth, several types of pliers, small ones, like these https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-7-Piece-Jewelers-Jewelry-Carrying/dp/B0785PDJZ7/

    Sixth, clamps and clips. A nice assortment, including alligator clips and binder clips. You can never have enough clamps, and if you have them, you will find a way to use them.

    The links I gave are to show examples of the tools I'm talking about. I'm not shilling any of them. The particular tools in the link may be good, or crap or over-priced.

    I've also found that a good collection of tweezers helps. Not the tweezers beauticians etc use, but the ones used for jewelry or lab work, like these https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Tweezers-Serrated-Multipurpose-Repairing/dp/B07ZX31VK8/ and you can get them in different sizes etc. The pair I use came from my dissection kit from college. A good pair of tweezers should last 30+ years.

    The nice thing about these tools is that they are also useful for all sorts of other tasks.

    Oh, and blu tac. It's crazy useful.

    ETA: A bit of advice. When buying tools, don't cheap out and get something made of Chinesium. You will regret it, and fairly quickly.
     
    #56 Red Harvest, Aug 29, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2020
  17. Benkei

    Benkei Well-Known Member

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    Even with all of those still some Infinity minis are a bitch. They were much much worse before Red Veil, but some of them are still annoying.
     
  18. fari

    fari CRISTASOL, EL LIQUIDO DE LOS DIOSES

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    I started in Infinity 7 years ago with only a cutter... And i still have exactly the same now XD
     
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  19. chromedog

    chromedog Less than significant minion

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    You can get tweezers like that from stores like "Daiso" in Australia for a few dollars (or also from pharmacists, where they tend to be called "dressings forceps" and the pointier ones "Splinter forceps").

    I have a set of straight and bent from both sources. The dressings forceps ones are about an inch longer (almost 6" long) but they come in really handy for things like antennae, throttle/brake lever combos, ankle fins ...
     
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  20. nazroth

    nazroth 'well known Nomad agitator'

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