The thing about metallic paint is to use best paint you can find (no huge metal flakes), and then apply in similar fashion to NMM, even with a bit of matt paint for the shadows. That way you get a metal that reacts to eye-model-light position changes. Compare the sword tip in top right and bottom left. Or the shoulder pad in left pictures. Or the neck cover in all three. Things are shaded, yet they change a bit (instead of dead NMM).
Fair enough because I've covered shoulderpad with plain and a toned down metallic and two glazes, but gun is a plain base with black wash. Thanks for ference, I'm not good at NMM and I tried to adapt TMM technic to use only one metallic colour. I've used Vallejo Metal Color and applied it with brush. It has fine flakes but becomes grainy when dilluted. For darker tone I added black wash. Also an old phone camera plus JPEG compression made photo not so nice.
Not sure if could help you but here is a few things from my personal experience with metallic paints: - always use metallic over a black base - avoid water with metallic (some people can but I always end with too much water), use medium instead - I find metallic to quickly ruin brushes if you don't clean them regularly - the only metallic paint I use water with good result is gun metal grey over a zénithal priming for blades (once again it may be only me) - if you want metallic paints with really thin pigment, I recommend the Vallejo Air ranges. They are so thin and the layer so smooth that I had to mat varnish it before applying another paint over it (very specific here but you get the idea).
Like Koin-koin : AV Air metallic paints are amazing : excellent coverage, extra thin pigments and super fluid !
To elaborate a little on that, do not, ever use metallic paints with natural brushe, especially expensive kolinsky ones like Raphael 8404, W&N Serie 7, Artis Opus, etc Metallic paints are made with tiny flakes of alluminium and other metals as "pigments", they will shred natural bristles and ruin the brush eventually, no matter how much and how well you clean them.
I am partial to the Scale75 metals, but Vallejo Air is very good as well. TMM with heavy opaque shading is the way to go in my opinion for best results. For Infinity, I like how metallics can look in stuff like swords, or small bits, but not really for anything else to be honest.
so this is a Infinity mini with metalic paint ... made like 15 years ago .. today i would make it different (way better) so yes you can just consider Metalic a Non metalic and just shade it acordingly effect is nice if made well as with everything
I think it's great in moderation and where it makes sense. I also don't think letting it be really shiny is good either.
I use Reaper Master Series metalics and I'm really happy with them. I use them mostly on blades, some guns, and on Kasym's motorcycle for example. There are some people that don't like it, but the most important is if you like it :) https://forum.corvusbelli.com/threads/kedzior-gallery-2020-02-15-leila-sharif-in-da-haus.34005/ PozdRawiam / Greetings
Guys and gals and nonhumans, I apreciate all recommendations and try to press myself and finish this miniature.
My whole steel phalanx are painted with metallic paints. They turned out fine. Στάλθηκε από το Mi A2 Lite μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
