I'm doing some concept work before I start working on the Azure Dragon. Today I also tried few camo patterns. In the end I'm considering those 3: a full digital camo, green variation of current US aircraft paint scheme and a semi digital camo I found on a Russians aircraft. What do you guys think? Also, has anyone tried using a water dipping decals on vehicles or infinity TAGs and miniatures? The technique looks quite interesting.
All three are fitting quite well to my personal taste. The first one is the most elaborate but can require a lot of work. The second is the most discret and should not be to tricky to perform. The last one could be a good compromise between difficulty and elaborate vs simple. From my experience with another "car body" paint technic applied to modeling, there is a limit when you scale it down where the effect does not work anymore or cannot be achieved. It could work with a vehicle like this one but I think the size limit it nearby.
1st on looks the best, but hard to paint! Water slide decals are easy enough to use, but you should apply a softening and setting medium for best results (especially on rounded surfaces). Another trick is to apply a gloss varnish, then the decal, and then a matte varnish on top so that you don’t see the clear film around the decal. (I don’t like doing this on small minis so I just cut off the film very carefully, but it works well on vehicles if you use spray on varnish).
Are we talking about classic scale kit decals (just some water needed) or the ones used for car parts, weapons and such (fake carbon fiber, quick camo, etc, requiring a big bucket)? You can buy precut adhesive masks for the digicamo, or reusable stencils.
Doesn't seem like it. Here's a video of water-dipping painting - doesn't look like it would work like that on the second one.
I was referring to the second option mentioned by Mob of Blondes not the second picture. I realise that my reply could be understood both ways.
Hand operated hydrographic printing is used to apply camo to weapons or fake patterns (carbon fiber) to car parts, or any other decor that does not need to be 100% perfect. Like the spray thing above, but starting with a sheet instead of spraying on the water. But there is a computer based approach, in which the sheet image is deformed and the objects moved with actuator in such way they get a rather good "paint job" http://www.cs.columbia.edu/cg/hydrographics/ (wow, 2015, time flies... crude DIY version using the wrong computation method also tested https://formlabs.com/blog/full-color-pattern-3d-prints-computational-hydrographics/ ). So it would work, but for digital camo you better do it with a machine and computer help, for blob shaped ones it can be done by hand. For one like the drop ship, I would try to print/draw on adhesive masks then cut, or buy premade ones or the equivalent stencil (flexible plastic with holes).
Pick number one my Lord!! I think you're going to pull it off and the effect will be worth the work :) And about modellers decals, definitely invest in some softener and setter, so the decal won't show to much. Here's an article in our beautiful language ;) PozdRawiam / Greetings
Thank you guys for comments and suggestions. I think I'll go for a full digital camo in the end. It's an amazing model so I can take my time painting it. The plan is to do it using airbrush, so I'm going to have some vinyl stencils done. Well, that's a shame. Water dipping is something I found recently and I thought maybe it's a good way to apply digital camo to my IA miniatures. Found just a few videos where people are using water dipping decals on models, so I guess the technique is not widespread in or suitable for the hobby.
Actually I learned about it last summer doing some research about car paint technics to help my brother for a 1/12 truck model. We didn't go with this one but it was still interesting. What I understood about it: - you need a bit of logistic that may not be as easy for everyone to implement if you want a good result - as any technic there is a learning curve so it require quite some misses before achieving something nice - it does not seem that available for the masses (i.e. average Joe like me) - you need a good hand control, even more than with a brush You videos are quite interesting as it looks more accessible than I though first but still prepare to have many misses before being happy with the result (after all that's also part of the fun). If you're going this way, I'll be the first to ask you to share what you get.
More Sygmaa renegades. I tried some new techniques on those guys. Base shading on Kriigel is done with a white and black oil paints. On the other hand my Clipsos is painted with GW contrasts. Before I found the good proportion of Black Templar and Basilicanum Grey, poor Kiiutan ended twice in a resolvent. And a bit blury family photo.
Thanks mate. She is mainly my Clipsos FO but I field her as Kumotail from time to time. I'm waiting for a male speculo miniture from the defience to make a proper Kumotail conversion.
More speedpaint artichokes. Funny thing I never really liked strong contrast on my miniatures but I find no need to mix paints (I just use diluted white for all highlights) strangely refreshing.
they look very good. I plan to do something simular with my Defiance stuff. Otherwise I'd play this game in 2030. ;-)
Thank you guys. It's all about speed, so I use airbrush Good luck with your project. I can feel you as I have something like 80 Y jing minis to paint. I decided to speed paint tohaa to have at least one painted army. Plus, I'd get bold painting all those straps in a traditional way. Hard to say but I guess around 2.5-3 hours per mini. All depends on the model as faces tend to be more time consuming to paint than helmets and symbiot armour is more demanding than regular cloths. Beside that is just painting time. I don't count time for contrast paints to dry, masking bases or cleaning airbrush. I try to paint in triads (damn tohaa) so I don't have to clean airbrush after every single mini :)