Hey All, Long time lurker and admirerererer of the work that people throw up onto this forum. There are some seriously Lush models that get uploaded here. I have recently gotten back into infinity as a game and was preparing for a tournament which was due to take place in April before all this Covid silliness started. For this tourney I dug out my Tunguska bits that I had started to collect when they were first released and decided this was going to be my force. I also (stupidly) decided that I would follow the scheme laid down by Angel Giraldez in his book "Masterclass Volume 2". This thread will detail my attempts to replicate his lovely looking nomad scheme and will mostly fall very short of that lofty goal ! One thing that I will say, is that comments and criticism will always be welcome and any tips offered will be greatfully received (unless its "don't paint them red scrub ). Each post will aim to show you what I have completed for the force to date. Cheers, Mipps
Righto, So it seemed rude to start a painting thread without some models I am working on (I was just wrestling with the upload process and imgur). I have started with 4 securitate. As you can see below, not quite to the same standard or look as AG The dude with the HMG is "finished", but I am not super happy with his weapon or the pouches/bag. Not too sure on how to make em pop or look like a fake leather/plastic. I tried going for stark white final highlight but it really felt too much, or perhaps I went too thick with the lines. The other 3 are "finished" apart from the guns as I need to think a little more on how to do those. I want to try and avoid using metalics and stick with a NMM style, but I am yet to be able to successfully do silver/gunmetal style. Perhaps I should have started with the support bots and koalas rather than a core and very visible part of the list
Nice work so far! Very neat and good sign you have a steady hand. one tip: don’t use white as a highlight on its own. Instead mix white with the original color to get your highlight color. For red you will get a pink colour (on your models you could wash watered down red over the white highlights to blend them in a bit better).
Thanks! Yeah I agree on the stark highlights on the red. As i mentioned I was following along the Masterclass Vol2 book and the final highlight on the reds was a 50/50 mix of sunny skin tone and white. Howeve upon actually laying down the highlight I suspect that some of the red was used as you suggested to make the colour a bit more harmonious and less abrupt. I also think for the next batch I will try to use a finer brush to really dial the highlights back to a smaller area (bit more used to 40k where bold highlights work due to the scale.). Truth be told I will probably go back and redo these at somepoint after I have refined things alittle, and perhaps I should have started with the koalas and Pandas to practice on
@Mippie I love how your Securitate look. The shade of red you painted stands out from other variations I've seen. I personally like the highlighting. Whatever you decide is best for your minis will turn out grand. Hope to see what else you shall accomplish & post.
Hi all, Little update. Just finished working on my 2 koalas and 2 pandas, I know these are just "equipment" items and arent really "game" pieces but still. I slightly adjusted the highlight approach for the reds and think it looks a little more harmonious instead of being stark. As with the other minis I havent done the bases yet as I will crack those all out at once when finished.
@Mippie That shade of red is still looking great. Those red pandas are painted well & stand out to me over the koalas.
Thanks Dude. I completely agree with you! I think it's because the koalas are so small, its hard to get a good shot of the detailing. Its, Ironic that the Koalas will almost always be on the table, wheras the Pandas will only go out if I actually remember or need to use them
@Ugin Thanks man! I am really only trying to stand on the shoulders of giants by plagerising almost every aspect of the scheme
Hi all, Another small update and a HUGE gap between the last one and this. This is for a couple of reasons, including the hot weather making my airbrush SUPER flakey and unreliable, the release of Mount and Blade 2 Bannerlord (this has destroyed my free time) and my first attempt at using liquid mask not being super successful (resulting in paint coming off, and areas needing repainting/horrible textures due to the mask). But still, i have finished a couple of Hecklers and also a grenzer. Tried to add a bit of the OSL reflection to some of the areas of the figure just to try something different. Also, per the other models, the bases and weapons/accessories (such as the heckler jammer) are pending. Then a little group shot of the models completed so far Thanks All, Mipps
@Mippie Your Tunguskans are coming together nicely. Any units in your painting que that we will see done soon?
@Golem2God Thanks for the kind words! Always appreciated. I ahve just noticed I forgot to do the mag pouches or belt for those hecklers so will just get them done. After that it will be a squad of Clone Troopers for SW Legion for something a bit different but they will be quick cause they are basically all GW Contrast paint. Following this, its a hollow man and a Kriza Borzac, so hopefully should be able to share these by end of next week. Cheers, Mipps
Actually, Sunny Skin Tone sounds about right. It follows a common tip from colour theory, where you should brighten with a hue a couple of ticks up the colour wheel (counterclockwise), and shade with a hue a couple of ticks down. So for a bright orangish red, a very light orange is about right. But you are right, it is not going to look good if your paint extents beyond the edge. That's not due to the hue, though, it's because edge highlights are the very bright ones you only see, well, at the edges. In fact, most specular highlights should be very small. Rather than going pink and muting down the colour, one solution that fits your painting style would be to paint the minis with a darker red for the main colour, then highlight with the red you used here. Not sure if this is of any use considering how advanced you are on the project, but maybe something to try with the next one.
You don't need a thinner brush, but a sharper tip. That explains why some prefer "big" sizes (2, 3, 4) of expensive brands (W&N 7, Raphael 8402 & 8404, etc) and manage to do small details with them. Also in some cases, where the lines is in the edge of the surface, you can get fine lines by painting with the side of the brush just touching that edge at 90 degrees instead of trying to follow the edge with the tip. For tricky places, you can paint the line, then reduce the visible thickness by covering with the other color on each side (upper case is fresh paint: RRRRRRR -> rrWWWrr -> rRRwRRr thin white line in red zone).
for photos if you are not making them with potato - set EV to -1,5 this will reduce brigntnes so they will not be over exposed any more to brushes Mob of Bones got that right and i wil even add that smal brush make thing harder as it holds less water and paint dry way to fast making painting detail harder and you can get good natural and "big" from lesser known brands and good like Kolibri nr 90 size 1 to 3 (3 is quite big would stick to 1 or 2 ) or Lineo nr 190 size 2 to 4
