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IJW's Infinitely Long Painting Thread

Discussion in 'Miniatures' started by ijw, Nov 27, 2017.

  1. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    (July 2016)

    just blocked out colour on the bases:

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  2. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    (August 2016)

    I've been busy since the last post. First some facing markings, brown for the support troops.

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    I tried Light Livery Green for the Unidrons, but Magic Blue worked much better.

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  3. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    I've also been getting paint onto the Xeodrons.

    First and second coats of yellow glaze base coat.

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    Pink areas basecoated.

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    Some cold skin tones used to do the dead/semi-frozen head on the base.

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    I've also been trying painting and prepping while standing, due to sitting for too much of the day in the daytime. So far it's working OK.

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    First and second coats of green/yellow/brown glaze mix.

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    Yellow-brown mix for the darkest areas, using old GW Yellow Glaze, VMC Smoke, VGA Dark Green and Coat d'Arms Chestnut Ink.

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  4. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    Next the rest of the parts go deep purple/black.

    Testing on a lower leg. A thick wash of Hexed Lichen.

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    Followed by a black wash and some edge highlighting and crosshatching.

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    More crosshatching.

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    Then a locally applied black wash and a thin glaze of Hexed Lichen, although this brought the highlights a bit too far down and made the colour too rich - I should have stopped with the black wash.

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    The rest of the areas got a thick wash of Hexed Lichen and black mixed together.

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    Followed by a black wash over the purple areas, the usual red/pink/brown wash and shading on the pink areas and a few details like the glowing orange eye-slits.

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  5. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    And now the tricky bit. Trying to add lightning and/or distortion effects to the big vanes.

    A while ago I came across a Japanese tutorial (sadly not bookmarked) that used stretched sisal/loofah as an airbrush mask to create marble effects - where the strands of material touched the surface the base colour would show through with crisp edges, and where the strands lifted away you'd get a more diffuse effect. This seemed like a good starting point - but this being Infinity, I decided to use some fine hexagon mesh fabric that I just happened to have lying around.

    After testing a bunch of variations of dark base colour and pale overcoat and vice-versa on wooden stirrers, a pale base coat and spraying on dark paint appeared to work best.

    So the next step was to mask off the big vanes (with clingfilm) and highlight them up through Magic Blue to near-white. The near-white was a bit splattery (should have been thinned slightly) but that fits the desired effect anyway.

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    Now the magic ingredient! The hex fabric has a mesh about 2mm across, at some point I'll have to experiment with different sizes. Crumpling up the fabric so that there was a mix of 2-5 layers seemed to work best, and stretching it slightly also helped as the warped bottom layer helped add to the distortion effect.

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    I airbrushed with black, generally trying to make sure there were slightly more layers of fabric towards the tips of the vanes, and applying more paint towards the roots of the vanes.

    IMPORTANT NOTE - make sure you use a dry section of fabric each time, or you end up with random black lines and smudges.

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    That last bottom left vane is my favourite of the lot - as it's a semi-random effect you're going to get bits that come out particularly well or particularly badly.



    The vanes revealed!

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    Overall I'm very happy with the result - reality rippling as the warp generators* kick in and lift the brutish creature off the ground in a jump!



    Lastly, I finished off some details like the K1 Combi Rifle with purple lighting (to match the purple used on the Unidron K1 Combi) and also painted the inner ribbing on the rearmost vanes white, followed by a runny coat of Angel's favourite VGA Hot Orange to give some warm/cold contrast and to hint at massive energy output to power the vanes.

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    *Pure conjecture on my part - Morats use big pistons to get Super Jump, I thought the EI would take a more high-tech approach - and the vanes remind me of the anti-grav vanes in Appleseed.
     
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  6. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    Finishing touches.

    First layer of cross-hatched highlights in a mix of Hexed Lichen, black and white.

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    Second layer of cross-hatched highlights, with lots more white but pretty thinned down.

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    Locally-applied black wash to blend in the cross-hatching.

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    And another photo showing the orange core of the warp vanes on the other side.

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    Painting-wise it's now finished, but it still needs varnishing, snow and shrubbery adding to the base and LoF gradients on the sides of the base.
     
  7. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    Three shots of the Xeodron before varnishing it. Varnishing it very thoroughly, as some of the paint layers are... fragile.

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    And post-varnishing. I may do the gun and purple/black areas in matt, but the gloss helps with the warp vanes by bumping up the contrast.

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    Now it's time to finish some part-done models. The Slave Drones got a Yellow Glaze plus Hexed Lichen base coat for the 'yellow' areas, then a couple of washes of Turquoise Glaze with Magic Blue and Smoke, followed by shadows with more Smoke in.

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    And a particularly pink wash on one tail.

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    Doctor Worm, Ikadron No 2 and both Slave Drones then got assorted washes and shading on the yellow/green areas, keeping it all fairly brown in tone to distinguish from the assorted Batroids.

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    I was a bit stuck what to do with the 'heads', so ended up going with a neutral look to make the eyes stand out more - first a thin wash of Sombre Grey with the wash lifted off the upper areas, then a thin wash of VGA Black followed by some old and rather thick Badab Black. Then the eyes were painted solid white in preparation for gem-like yes.

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    Digging into my old techniques for Eldar and Elves, successively darker areas were painted with thinned paint until the top left of each eye was darkest, with a spot of white reflection on it - making sure to leave almost pure white showing around the bottom edge.

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    Then there was a whole bunch of little bits to finish the models off - purple gem side eyes, black manipulator arms with orange laws, a browner wash and shade of the second Slave Drone's tail, orange spikes on the Doctor, guns and yellow ribbing on the Ikadron to match the first one and a few details picked out on the back of the Doctor. Four more finished models! Since these photos I also picked out the circles on the Doctor and Drone tails in a darker brown.

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    Which brings me to the next task, and it's a big one...

    Drone Remotes. These will have a few small areas in yellow/green/brown, quite a bit of pink/brown and then the bulk of the rest will be purple/black similar to the Xeodron.

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    For the Interplanetary that leaves me with the two Drone Remotes and the second Xeodron to finish off, and if I have time there's a Unidron ML to do from bare metal. That should be manageable...
     
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  8. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    It's been ten days since the last update, but not since the last lot of painting.

    There's just the Drone Remotes and Xeodron 2 to do for the Interplanetary.



    Pink and green areas on the Drones, with the bulk of the white areas destined to become dark purple.

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    Cross-hatch highlighting of the purple plus dark washes on the guns.

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    For the Smart Missile Launcher I decided to combine elements of the Noctifer's Missile Launcher (red missile tubes) and the Unidron's Plasma Sniper (green glowing panel on top).

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    Then it was time to do some work on Xeodron 2 - dark purple areas basecoated and washed with black, followed by doing the pink muscle fibres.

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    And then the finished Drone gun arms. The EVO antenna is likely to end up mottled similar to the warp vanes, but given that I'm leaving to catch the ferry in 26 hour's time, for now some edge-highlighting will at least make it look painted.

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    So, still to do:

    • Varnish the Drones and Drone arms.
    • Cross-hatch highlight all the purple areas of the Xeodron.
    • Xeodron Red Fury.
    • Varnish Xeodron (I can then come back to the warp vanes later, with less time pressure).
    • LoF arcs on the Drones, Xeodron, Noctifer, Legate, Corax Spec-Ops and Samaritan, although the Samaritan doesn't really need it.
    No time pressure, honest... [​IMG]
     
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  9. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    And some more on Xeodron 2.

    Cross-hatch highlighting done on the purple areas. i intentionally made it more rich in colour than the first one.

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    Now the Red Fury in stages. I've taken to doing a small section at a time with the guns, it makes it less boring and slightly closer to wet blending.

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    Followed by white base where the glowing areas will be.

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    And orange this time - unfortunately red was already allocated to Normal ammo. This was a single mix that was applied in several stages to paint in the darker/richer areas, plus a tiny bit of white edging followed by a thinned down glaze of the same mix to get that richness of colour.

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    And a close-up of the Red Fury. I'm very pleased with the orange colour.

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    In theory I'm now ready to varnish stuff! The warp vanes on this one are going to have to wait until I'm back from Spain.
     
  10. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    (October 2016)

    After a break of almost two months from assembly and painting...

    I present to you Uni-tin-bot. This is a Yu Jing Servant Remote with the head of a Unidron and a shield made from the bottom flaps from a Fraacta backpack. He'll be joining my Unidron Fireteam. [​IMG]

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    Being me, I couldn't stop there, and decided to add (more) magnets.

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    So the two models are now held together by a strip of blister plastic that 'pivots' on both ends due to the magnets. I used it in a game this week and overall it was OK - slightly fiddly but less irritating than having to pick up the Tinbot A MAS marker each time I moved the K1 Combi Unidron.
     
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  11. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    The Overdron arrived, which means that I now know how tiny the 'real' Tinbots are. Oddly enough, many many magnets were involved...

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  12. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    (April 2019 - we're back in real-time, folks!)

    Aaaaaaand that's where the thread had got to, before a painting break and the forum move messed things up a bit...

    Over the next couple of weeks I'll add photos of the stuff painted since October 2016, including the Red Veil Haqq models (using similar techniques to the Ariadna models, but more advanced) and some more Onyx.

    Oh, and Pulpi...

    EDIT - and now I can close 27 tabs that had been open from the old forum...
     
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  13. Dedled

    Dedled Speculo Agent

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    That marbling/spotting effect on the vanes using the net is great. It looks like subtle insect markings.
     
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  14. Section9

    Section9 Well-Known Member

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    Ooooh, I am going to have to get some VGC Magic Blue!
     
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  15. toadchild

    toadchild Premeasure

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    Thanks for reposting! You've got a pretty intense pinning setup in some of those early photos.
     
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  16. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    Thanks, that was partly the intention!

    It's about as vivid as as blues get.

    Yeah. Improvements in my construction techniques and in CB's model design have made it far less necessary, fortunately!
     
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  17. Usashi

    Usashi Well-Known Member

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    I'm stealing this idea :heart_eyes:
     
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  18. ijw

    ijw Ian Wood aka the Wargaming Trader. Rules & Wiki
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    Some recent stuff. Having collected together a substantial number of little piggies over the years, I decided that they would make excellent proxies for Taigha Creatures.

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    For some variation in the next set, I decided to spend half an hour cutting the top off one of the heads to get a flip-top head effect:

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    And then adding a 'snack':

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    This one is based on an intermediate stage of cutting the head open, as it gave such a menacing grin:

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  19. Usashi

    Usashi Well-Known Member

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    The one devouring whole leg is really disturbing. Good job :)
     
  20. Section9

    Section9 Well-Known Member

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    Straight up creepy!

    Though we all knew those pigs were creepers, anyway, looking up the dragon lady's skirt like that.
     
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