I'm more of a Foam tray guy because I use mostly public transport (and a rigid big one would be awkward to move with), and I already have one bag for 3 trays (usable for a single list), another for 6-8 (my whole Aleph, EC or Nomads collection fits there with extra space) and a big 10-12 tray I rarely use.
I believe those cases are discontinued. The new a-case is still in preorder as they send out the last of the KS straggler cases. Again, I'll be honest. I've been a foam user for 15 years, and I was VERY skeptical of magnetic cases. I'm a commission painter and I spent a lot of time on my own models and am a big supporter of proper transportation. After using the a-case, i wouldn't go back to foam, nor would I recommend anyone who doesn't want to damage their models use foam. The difference is just phenomenal. I no longer bring glue to my game nights at the shop, because I haven't had a broken miniature to repair in months.
Another option is Phobos Foundry's Shape Shift. It uses sliders that lock in the bases. I built my own variation on the theme in an afternoon out of 5mm plywood and made a case to slide the trays in. Even less sliding around than magnets.
I'm currently in process of putting some of these together http://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/epag...seful_Box_Storage/Type_A__European_4__9_Litre Should be more than enough for my infinity, even with the cost of a really useful box it comes in as about £40ish if you're looking for a budget magnetising option. I went with rubber steel on the trays and the base cutout inserts to stop things sliding around. I've been meaning to put up a blog post on them but time is limited lately
I love my Feldherr Mini Plus for most Infinity Gaming. Their "Monster" version gives some pluck foam but I tend to use a basic 16 hole one for infantry and a 40mm 8-slot half size for remotes, TAGs, dice, thingamajigs and stuff, leaving it low enough to carry my dice tray and my box-o-why-didn't-I-bring-this-tokens inside the tray itself.
For my part I used setup boxes (the ones from cables) and upholstery foam : Allows for a lot of adjustment and fitting as the hole is just the right size and shape for the mini. All in all, 50$CAD (foam as the boxes were free from work) I can even put TAGs by gluing two layers of 1.5" foam together.
Theres a big sale on Miniature Market for pluck foam trays and bags. I would buy if I hadnt everything already ;/
I am on a budget and found that magnetic lining cut to fit the bases and another magnetic lining sheet on the bottom of any case of your desire works best. I dared to hold it at a 90˚ angle and it held. Whew.
Still waiting for my A-Case... I really hope nothing bad happens and I will get it! Anyway, a practical question: guys, how would you attach magnets to the bottom of the bases? Would normal white glue suffice?
When I was into magnetizing, I would put some green stuff in the bottom of the base, then encrust 2 o 3 neodinium magnets. Unfortunately, at the time I didn't know all little magnets were not equal, and had several mishaps with magnetized minis sliding into one another and breaking apart. Granted, I live in a Third World Country without a road maintenance culture, so some of the banging and sliding could be atributed to external factors.
Oh! So you have some contact with these guys? The only way I have of contacting them is through the FAQ on the webpage...
Use the same super glue you used for putting your models together. Make sure the magnets rise over the bottom of the base a bit otherwise they won't have appropriate adhesion to the metal plates and they'll slide. Use more than one magnet, preferably on opposite sides of the base so they can't rotate. Finally, look for a magnet retailer in the EU, the ones from hobby shops cost way too much. Personally I use pluck foam for mine and it worked just fine for all my PanO models with a few exceptions. These CA models are a whole different story and I've had to get creative with my cut outs.
Ah, see, that's one of the things I've been wondering about... So, the magnets need to be positioned in a way that makes them actually touch the metal shelf? I've been wondering whether them being in close proximity to the metal would be enough...
If they don't touch the metal, they might pull themselves off the base. Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
Use a soft epoxy putty along the cyano (base, cyano, putty, cyano, magnet). It will serve as filler so the magnet is level against the metal and also as cushion for vibrations and provide extra surface as it should wrap around the magnet. Or use epoxy glue, it tends to cure in similar rubbery fashion. Some kind of non sticky flat surface recomended while things dry.
Well, my take on the problem: http://www.data-sphere.net/magnetic-storage/ ...for me, it works like a charm!
Cake pans. They stack, they come with lids, they are cheap, and they mow your lawn. Well, perhaps not the later. I use 13"x9" cake pans. I have in insert in the cake pan made of medium density fiberboard with holes drilled to slot in bases so figures don't move around. Now, I use steel washers for bases, so I glue the magnets to the cake pan instead of gluing the magnet to the base. Some rare earth magnets are so strong I was pulling figures out of theirs (Joan of Arc with her thin ankles), so I glued a penny in between as a space. This still strong enough to hold the figures upside down. Drilling the S2 holes is easy with with a Forsner bit, which cuts neater than a paddle bit. S5 holes, I used 1.5" hole-cutting bit, and works well for my 1.5" washers...but this is closer to 37mm than 40mm so commercial bases don't fit so well. In the future, I'd sand out the hole with a dremel. The 55mm and 70mm I use an adjustable hole cutter, a bit with an adjustable arm with a blade -- you really need a drill press for this wobbly things. Finally, I created some terrain to look good. The Haqq desert is dried coffee grounds for texture -- I wanted something I knew I could drill though without dulling my bits. The Pan-O is hard board (like a board game board) on top of "Granny Grating", a plastic weave for some sort of sowing, on top of MDF. If I had it to do over, I'd have used styrene sheets instead of Hard Board, as it was difficult to drill. If you don't have access to so many wood shop tools, you could probably get similar results from foam core or another softer material. The insert just keeps models from spinning on magnets and functions sort of a displace. Note, they are tall enough for Maggie, but Dragoe with his always-ready-to-break-off ammo belt needs to magnetized to the side wall of the cake pan. These are the only two TAGs I own, so I can't commend on how other tags fit. They stack:
