Thx - I like it. The Guided Tinbot was used as an example in the rulebook, so I assumed it exist. And needed for the Long Ya - the new S3 REM from Yu Jing. Still we have no model yet. I not complaining here, but I think you ment it too good ;-) In my meta, even the use of unloaded is a bit rare. But different loaded states? But why not. I would say two is enough. Maybe three for some special list ideas (you never know). Four are available as far as I remember. Personaly I liked the bordered order-markers, but I´ll be happy with this ones - you do a great job! I would suggest to delete the "Sup." on the Supportware Markers. Its clear that this is supportware and makes the text too long. Some could even get confused by the same "Sup." in Suppresive Fire.
I just looked at the original PDF and the "40mm" S3 and the "40mm" S5... PER-FECT. We're supposed to print this token PDF 100% of scale and use it as source of Silhouettes, lol.
Will add Guided Tinbot. I assume the two flavors are Guided -3 and Guided -6? I personally use little chessex dice of various colors to keep track of stuff - I have green dice that I put next to the character profiles to remind me of how many disposables they have left... but you can never have too many tokens, right? Especially when they have cool illustrations on them. I'm not against doing this... Supportware already has a completely different border color to set it apart and I agree that the abbreviation is kinda meh - I already changed SUP FIRE to SUPPRESSIVE FIRE on the latest incarnation of that token (the official N4 one is abbreviated) for this reason but I think I could go one step further and just remove SUP: from the supportware like you say.
It was @Nihilim who noticed the printed PDF has the issue. 100% Tactical Facepalm. I hoped the one in the book was just to make things fit in a page, and did not check further. But new people could be hit by the issue. Also this way they would match the style of the tokens you are doing. If looking for suggestions, I would make the S# big, centered in the rectangle, roughly 20x20 mm. Maybe a 3*3 mm fine line or dot pattern, or full checkers, instead of a simple X for LoF rules. The pattern could do inverse colors to the big text.
cross-posted from: https://forum.corvusbelli.com/threa...rect-images-of-silhouettes.38157/#post-371499 Here's a test layout including what I believe is correct sizing for everything using my existing style (halftone lines). I've replaced the odd 'star' which I think is meant to represent a 3mm square on the official N4 silhouettes, with an actual 3x3mm square. Here's a version with a checkerboard as a test to actually make LoF confirmation easier. The only issue is that the sizes of the templates are not really easily divisible by 3mm increments, so the edges of the template (e.g. the place where you are most likely to NEED a 3mm square for judgment) are also where the design falls apart. I've added a 3mm ring around the edge to help with this, but it's not ideal. Here's a version that intentionally lines up the squares along the edges and top of the silhouette where they are most useful, though it creates an odd gap down the middle of the marker... I've filled it in here with a gray line to keep it from being confusing, though I'm not sure if that's visually better than leaving a thin line of checkers.
I like the edit to not have matching colors lined up at the center of the checkered S2. That was oddly difficult to look at.
So this is what it looks like when I line up the checkerboards - the only ones that looks a bit gnarly are the 40mm size (and S8, 70mm) because it's not quite enough room for the checkerboard to meet in the middle but it ends up being a super-wide band... buuuut they're meant to be utilitarian so I think it works. note, S5 silhouette has wrong width measurement listed here Upon close inspection the official Silhouettes that come with Kaldstrom DO have tiny little 1mm squares on them (which the printable token sheet actually does not have). This is technically more accurate than 3mm squares because a limited view of the silhouette will likely not always be centered exactly on a square BUT it's also almost impossible to see a 1mm shape from the distances it will likely matter at (and at least as far as the edges are concerned, where you're most likely to need to check, you would in fact need to see a full 3mm square) so I'm okay with the 3mm design.
We don't care about 3mm of the silhouette being visible anymore though? Hence the famous "Maghariba behind a hydrant" meme?
I think we only care about it in the sense that 3mm of silhouette is the minimum amount that you need to establish LoF (N4 book, p.8) That's a slightly different rule than the 1/3 of the model rule for Partial Cover, which is the one that went away and allows us to build boards full of fire hydrants.
Excellent work Lawson. I've decided to forgive you because of it. (Your avatar reminds me of that abominable screed the Greyhawk Supplement, which was the ruination of D&D. It's very triggering :D ) Since you mentioned the wear and tear on your order tokens, I offer the following. To keep the printed tokens nice you can 'seal' them with a clear heavy duty tape. Gorilla tranparent repair tape or Scotch heavy duty shipping tape work very well. In the attached photo, the Lt. token on the left is sealed; the one on the right is as it came. Alternate sealers include a water based polyurethane like that used for furniture. Minwax polycrylic, for example. That's what I used on the order tokens seen in the photo. It can be brushed on, or airbrushed on. N.B. If you airbrush it, clean, thoroughly clean the airbrush and let it dry un assembled. One can also see that I use metal washers for my tokens. I like the extra weight. It keeps the tokens from moving around on the table if something is bumped, and the heft feels nice in the hands. The edging is such that they are easy to pick up too. On the subject of easy to pick up, also shown, in the back right, is a token mounted on a standard slant side base. The trick with using those for the tokens is to flip the base so the wide side, the 25mm side is up. Easier to pick them up that way.
Interesting idea to use washers - I may look into that. I'm likely going to seal my tokens in some way as you've said. My airbrush-ready varnish is like liquid gold so I'll likely use a rattle can of something, but I can't quite decide between a gloss or matte varnish. Gloss will probably 'pop' more but also might get weird reflections on the table. Probably worth doing some tests. Also yes, that's the derpy Beholder from old Greyhawk. A bit before my time but I love how stupid it looks :-P
Maybe I'm missing something, but shouldn't the the 40mm and 70mm ones need only a 1mm grey line in the middle? 39 and 69 are both divisible by 3...
The checkers look better "normal" than "with middle line". After all, the square must be visible thru any kind of thing, for example windows, and not just in edges of the template. It's more a visual guide, so you don't have to move it much in worst case, unlike with the X. OTOH, maybe the base part should also have squares in two tones of grey. Or not, and flip the template for those under the car shoots. :D
So yes, 40mm is just 1mm shy of divisible by 3. If I was just starting in one upper corner and going to the opposite side, the far side of the shape would have a partial 1mm edge. However, since I'm prioritizing the edges where questions of LoF are mostly likely to occur, I want to guarantee a full set of 3mm squares all the way around (except near the base where, again, they are relatively less important unless you frequently shoot under things). That means two sets of squares extending inward from the edges and meeting in the middle. If you start at the edge and work your way inward, you can think of that 40mm as being halved, because you're working 20mm to the center from the right and 20mm from the left. This means that you on get 6 squares (3x6=18mm) and are left with 2/3 of a square on each side that meets on the centerline. So you end up with 4mm of garbage in the center. If I delete the gray line you can see: 12 full squares x 3mm + 2 x 2mm squares in the center makes 40mm
I agree that the center line kinda sucks, and I also agree that there are cover circumstances that don't involve the edges of the template, but the squares still do cover 90% of the surface area (including the majority of the middle) and it seems to me that the absolute center line is literally the least likely place to need a hard LoF check. Do you not agree? I mean, if we really care so much about the center, we should probably get rid of the Size designations as well or at least shrink them down and put them inside a square... but then we potentially lose the immediate identifiability of the templates. Centering the pattern looks nice but you end up with a 2mm wide border all the way around, which completely defeats the point of what I would expect the template to be used for a decent amount of the time. The main reason I covered over the full center line was to show that the squares were not complete so that no one assumed a partial square represented 3mm. If I just put the same size center line on each and leave the incomplete squares, it at least looks decent, I think. Maybe adding 1mm hashmarks as well just in case? Edited to put the hashmarks over the bases too - I don't think it makes the text any harder to read
@Lawson How about doing away with the gray line completely and instead merging the incomplete pattern in the middle into some kind of fuzzy or stripey soft gradient? It could look cool and be an even better background for the Silhouette size "title" than a checkerboard. Kinda sorta like this? I "ate" two full checkers, maybe just one? Sloppy quick PS, sorry :P
