I highly recommend the usage of a jewelliers saw. This is a tool of wonder to make precise and easy cuts on infinity models.
Have it lying around, but to be honest, if I am not able to do it with a knife, it's not worth to be done
As another poster mentioned, I cut the bar off leaving two spear shaped points under the feet. Then pop a couple holes in the base to match them. Also been playing with simple green on bases. Was actually thinking of just molding some solid bases from resin and just molding a magnet right into it, but seems like a lot of work.
Buy a saw blade? Spoiler: Examples They all fit in typical x-acto compatible handles. Edit: examples.
The second half of the sentence answered your question: "if I am not able to do it with a knife, it's not worth to be done " Or do you want me to think that's what you posted are knives That's not a knife. If it has not at least 4 Inch blade length, it's not a knife I use a (much) older version of something like this: And a serrated blade is no option for miniatures
A serrated saw blade is a perfectly viable option for miniatures. If you're worried about the blade "sticking" in the cut, then lubricate the blade first. Graphite powder (hell, just rub the cutting edge with a 2b pencil), talc, candle wax, wd-40 ... all of them will work to limit the friction that causes the blade to stick.
What part of "serrated saw" blade made you think of that numptyknife? It's a f**king serrated KNIFE, not even close to being a saw. It's more of a steakknife than a sawblade. ALL sawblades have serrations. Jewellers' saw, coping saw, razor saw. ^^ that ^^ is just a tool for tools.
Like I said, I build the models with a knife. A "normal" knife, not some boxcutter or anything like that. A normal 4-inch-folding-knife. And if I'd switch to a serrated knife, it would be something like the one above. If I need some kind of saw (coping, razor, jewellers) to build a model, it's not worth to be built. I don' do fretwork on my models.
Cut the Tab like pins and make two or one drill in the Base. Images from Tutorial: https://bloodofkittens.com/wargaminghub/2015/01/19/how-to-tab-pin-infinity-miniatures-to-bases/
I do it all of the time. they may bend a little but bending back is not a problem. So far cutting down the tab to posts works fantastic for me.
Yes, sure, possible is everything, but why not go for the source instead of trying to cure the symptoms. If the bases are better to start with, we would not have to find a way to work around them. With the new bases pretty much everything is wrong: you have bars you don't need that most of the time are just annoying you have dot's on the underside that vary in height so neither 1.0 mm, nor 1.5 mm nor 2.0 mm thick magnets work really well the underside is so cluttered that magnets only fit in very restricted places and can not be put under the center of gravity. there is not single thing better than with the old bases Yes, we can work around these problems. I can use 4+ smaller Magnets (which cost more than larger magnets and i found harder to obtain). I can do some fretwork on my miniatures to make them fit the bases and so on. But wouldn't it be simpler so change the bases? Why trying to defend something as unimportant as the plain black bases, instead of going for some improvement?
Good points. Well I don't know of other company plastic bases you could use. I was putting resin on my friends and would also drill a shallow hole in the middle of them for a magnet. It worked pretty well too. Only took seconds to do too. You are no obligated to use the new CB bases.
I just file down the LOF markings on the new bases and then paint the facings on. Only takes a couple seconds.
I use 1mm×5mm in that "socket" for all my bases. The other thing I might suggest is not using the entire tab at the bottom of the model. I usually cut all of it off except for a small peg under one foot. This I shave down to be approximately cylindrical. I then only need to drill a small hole in the base for the pin, instead of cutting a slot for the entire tab.
