Maybe the masking was really sticky, or the primer and paint not enough (were they fully cured? many days?). Some masking products must be pulled as soon as you can, to avoid problems as they "cure" too (label should say, some <2h, some <48h...). I see you mentioned varnishing in the other thread. While same brand should have same strength, maybe the rough surface of matt varnish helped the mask to stick better. Some varnishes are too weak anyway, same with primers. Depending on shape, you can try poster putty (Blutack, Patafix, etc...) or silly putty, masking tape (or the ghetto version, sticky notes) cut to fit. Thing I learned while a checking name (frisket)... you can use ruling pens to apply mask, new life for old thing.
I used Vallejo PU primer and I'm used to let it cure at least 12h but most of time 24h+ (in this case, in cured for month). Where the paint and and primer ripped off, it was all my fault of using nails. The major problem was the the stickiness of the liquid mask: 1- it doesn't get off as easily as I expected so the hi-detailed part were hard to clean 2- it tends to reglue on the surface I think that I broke some part of the mask without noting it just by touching the mini and there's definitely part I missed to cover. I'll see how the stripping end. If I have to glue all the part again, I'll let the arms apart as it will help a lot to access the side of the body. I may choose alternate masking tools as you mentioned (most of them I already have) and may get a maskol bottle next time. Anyway, to use the proper tool for the proper job, you have to try. In the end, I take this failure better than I would have a year or two ago. I know I can get the mini back, I've learned a few things, I've seen I can achieve what is to me a decent airbrush job and beside the 1h+ trying to remove the mask, it was quite a pleasant experience.
Tsk, the method is to use something like eraser, or old dry mask, or silicone brushes, to peel it off. Wild ideas, as it seems you are in experimenting mood, try them first over some scrap part, not a miniature: - put some drops of fluid somewhere, mix a contrasting pigment (or chalk dust) that looks obvious against the rest of miniature colors, then apply as normal. Easier to see what is covered and what is not, but may affect the behaviour. - use arabic gum as mask instead. It's water soluble even after drying, but airbrush should dry fast enough to not attack it much. Removal may need multiple soakings and scrubbing with bristle/nylon brush. It can be colored with pigments too. Completly different approach, may have fuzzy edges or fail completly (depends on how wet the top coats are).
I started with the silicon brush and it worked on the wide surfaces. Then I struggled with any recess. It went worst when the accumulated gum start to stick back to the mini. After noticing major miss on the gum coverage I know I had to redo everything so I tend to get lazy and use nails even knowing I could only lake it worse. No remorse here I just keep the learning points. The mini is already stripped at 99% with minimum effort so I will definitely re-pledge it next month. But please keep coming with any advice, they are always welcome. I agree with the different approach, in the end the black/metal part are so small that I should have come with standard brush job for them. So no such masking required.
some time ago I would have feel very bad about it, especially on such a model but I went over this pretty nicely. Yes the scheme feels ok, even more considering that it was pretty much improvised. Now I see how it deviate from my idea so I can correct it.
This liquid mask is not suitable for miniatures and acrylic/oil paints. This stuff is for masking paper when painting aquareles. With proper liquid mask work will be much easier. Vallejo 28850 Masking Fluid should be ok.
Talc! Keep some around and spread with brush or finger as needed. You should be able to eliminate all or part of the stickyness of the used gum, even coat everything else freely as it can be dusted/washed later. I use it when removing stickers from books and such, as "neutralizer" (no washing, obviously, but not noticeable after some handling). As tool for recesses, plastic pins or wood toothpicks should come handy. Liquid masks are liquid masks, probably most of them are latex derived, just different properties and quality. Sennelier product seems to be very sticky from Koin's experience (page also says: slow to dry but quick to cure, very sticky, can tint the surface). Vallejo offers a generic product (for acrylic, watercolor, etc, no distinction) in five different bottles, and people had issues with it anyway. No perfect mask, I guess.
I disagree. How they can be the same, if they have different properties and quality :P Problem is that it is hard to find information if mask for artists is usable to such a niche hobby as miniature painting. Options are: trial by error or get info from other hobbyists. I recommended Vallejo 28.850 Masking Fluid. I heard this guy have some authority here (useing liquid mask starts around 1:00) I guess Natural Resin Liquid Mask 70.523 is a little different and not the best option for minis.
IMO The best masking product for miniatures is Humbrol's Mask, You can look at my figs and see that I liberally apply that all over the place and it was probably on the model for 2 or 3 days before I took it off. It comes off much easier than Vallejo's.
"Liquid masks are liquid masks": they are sold as is, and people use them over paper, plastic, metal... with acrylic, watercolor, gouache... Some work better/differently than others, same way than Scale75 acrylic has different properties than Vallejo or Coat D'Arms. But compare to thinner case (for oil paint, for acrylic, for shellac...) where mixing is more probable to cause issues than to work (even partially). l'Aquarelle in the label is more brand than usage limit. Wrong guess: 70.523 is the product Vallejo lists in their miniature range. If Angel knows something, I would expect the brand that sponsors him to know too. *wink* At least in 2015 Fine Arts catalogue (page 47) (reuploaded 2018) they list 70.523 as the small bottle version of the big bottle 28.850 Angel shows. They even insist in 2019 Miniatures catalogue (page 90). Little Vallejo secret: products appear in multiple ranges and bottles, but are the same. They even admit it in some cases like the Heavy Opaques (Model Color with different label). Tip: when looking for mediums, varnishes and other items that are used a lot, check art shops, they probably have 35, 60, 200 or 500 ml versions; way cheaper than multiple 17 ml bottles in the long run. Maskol is a classic. First time I saw it was related to airbrushing (illustration, not miniatures). And later also saw it used to create quick molds for casting.
Back to business. Even if the mini was strip within 2 days, I didn't spent any time on painting since. Pictures are a bit dark as I need to reset my white balance setting but you'll get the idea. Main color done. Spoiler: More pics Now I need to do some color blocking and maybe some recess lining. I think I'm done with the airbrush as I won't try masking this time.
With a better white balance and some color blocking later it looks already better than what I could have expect when I bought it (years ago). Spoiler: More Pics Sorry for the blurry pic. Obviously a lot of thing to fix (black is really not forgiving) but I think I should be able to handle those misses. After so many times spend to worry about how could I paint it, would I be able to give at least some descent paint job for a mini that deserve more than just putting some colors on it, I really feel happy at the moment. Not only, I feel like I didn't screw it but I really think it's more than the okay I could have thought of no so long ago. And so far, it seems to me that I will end with something quite unique for this model (everything kept relative obviously). As usual, C&C are more than welcome. PS: I'd like to thank @lefrank for his advice about using yellow to highlight turquoise. Even if it's not the exact result I had in mind, it works really well and give it the green side I missed on my previous attempt (not obvious on pic, but it is IRL).
I ended going more dry brushing than I should/thought. Hires pics are not my friends here as they show how messy I went, but in hands it's not that bad (except for the gun). I'm wondering what color I should use for everything that is light. Green and blue are not part of the race. Red seems the obvious choice but maybe some orange could fit better. Spoiler: More Pics Ok the gun is really messy
Not sure if it's due to paint drying or light but I found that the previous contrast toned down the next morning so I decided to push it further. Even if it means more things to fix, I think it was the thing to do. Regarding lights, I considered pink but I thing an orange will be a more appropriate choice.
Working edge highlight further and putting all the bits together. Funny thing, the yellow patafix makes me think that yellow at these location would have been a good color beaker. Spoiler: More pics
