Azrail HMG - what going on on his gun - all red blicks go from upper left to botom right but on a circle element it go in reverse - there is no way you get something like that without a low hanging direct osl - bu this would require a global red light on whole model and placment of a light source on a mini diorama of sort Beside this they look a air brushed - but without enught touch up with brush to add them sharpnes and deeper shadows beside this looks good keep posting
I *bows head shamefully* don't even think about the light source that much, just whack on highlights where I think they look cool! Yes airbrushed, but I actually did go in with a brush to deepen shadows and do edge highlights! What do you think is missing in the brush work, @maru ? Maybe with the brush I need to highlight to a lighter colour, and likewise shade darker?
yes and no things are a bit more complicated this is your photo things that are wrong are contrast and lights as i assume that this orange spots are lights if you are nor exacly sure if things are right get a photo and swich it to grey scale soi switched it to grey scale - as you can c the orange light spots turn out to be actualy darker then surrondings more so a bend in the knee leg is damn bright as it would be directly put in the light , His but shinis like 2 orbs but from where this light comes from as it is not reflected from the ground light nor it may be from above as there is a huge shadow casted by upper part of the mini , And red shine on guns disapered as it is on same lightnes value as black near by just red it is not actualy lighter so i fixed the light in grey scale - made orange lights far brighter , made a gun parts brighter over the top , added reflected light under "his backpack " - to justyfy this 2 shining orbs on his butt, and i put this leg of his in a deep shadow , just leving a light on the parts that could grab a reflected from eart light or from above and this is final fixed light picture , orange lights are actualu brighter then surrounsings , reflected light on backpack justyf somhow a possible shin on buttoks , and i added a shadow on his back ther light would be obscured by his collar other topic is edge highlightning you will get best effect if final highlight will not be a line but a - ok have no idea how to describe in english .. o-0 . imagine that final highlight is a place where light reflect most and is just white no matter the base colour - and this light is a water - it will be in drops and it will flow with shape and curve of the surface caind of like on this mini and Joan armour and her hairs to this basicly look like she would be wet and all reflective syrfaces will get this effect - but not wooden pole - he is way less reflective then shining armour and polished leather belt so i switched Joan or Bark in to grey scale to c if My Highlights and shadows holds ;) ye they stay ;) - all tho reflection of blond hairs in the shoulder pad dissapeard as i just painted correct colour but have not changed saturation as it should be darker - hairs cast shadows ;) but i have not forget that reflective armour would cast reflecred light over the face from the bottom It is not the brush work you are missing but realisation how things interact witch eachothers ;) Heve you ever made asketch on a minature before final painting ?? (and no it is not time occupying process it actualy make thing faster is someone asks )
As always, The Maru Is Wise, great explanation of highlights placement, in fact one of the best i've seen so far
ok got complementary materials :) it is simplier to explain if you don't need to read my Engrish ;P it is all about Sketching http://www.contrastminiatures.com/learn/sketching/ deffinitly read this - it is basicly what i was doing when i was mentionig painting a minature Black and white as an goopd lesson to do as mind do not wounder around blinded by colours and can focus on values - and this can speed up painting proces allot if you know what go where especialy if youmake this fast and in a correct way and step from a minature - you will c instantly if you made values right or fucked up - it will just so mutch stand out :)
Super interesting. Thanks @maru ! The Joan example was very helpful, I understand what you mean. I must say, this is a lot of theory. Looks like I need to study to improve further :P I'll start with those videos!
Study is one thing practice is other - you may read all the book in the world about painting but without practice you will not be able do draw a stright line not to mentione a circle so grab a mini grt photo - paint it a Black white and grey sketch and post - we will tell you if values are right or something is off :) - after third or 5 th you will get instantly what is off and be able to go with colours from the start and get good effect - just to from time to time make a B/W thingi with more strange minis poses or details
Those black&white pics make things a lot simpler, @maru , thanks a lot! Practice makes perfect. See if you can buy a cheap box of lots of models (I dunno, Napoleonics or Fantasy, 20+ bodies), and paint them. Or, if you can find one, a Zombie Survivors box.
Painting time is such a premium these days (young family), I'm keen to pump out my models so I can play with them, rather than practise with other minis. But I'll try for an incremental implementation of what Maru is writing about - appreciate the tips, one and all!
That's why I mentioned the Zombie Survivors box, they make good civilians. (I should note that my definition of civilian for Infinity purposes is no apparent armor and armed with nothing more than a knife of pistol)
What's better for ARO duties, 1 Lasiq Viral sniper (25pts, 1.5SWC), or 3 inferior infiltration Panzerfaust Daylami (24pts, 1.5SWC)? Now I can find out! Also some magnetised weapons to allow for different load-outs :)
Por que no los dos? Though I should point out that I tend to prefer to use snipers in the active turn.
Helots vs Daylami in the battle of the irregular speed bumps :D Look forward to seeing them! @Section9 - Snipers in the active turn, do tell me more. I used to use a Djanbazan sniper in the active, but since painting up the Djan HMG I've not looked back.
Well, most of my snipers are camo'd, so active turn means Surprise Shot bonuses. Lasiqs don't have Surprise Shot, so are less hurt by shooting in ARO. Infiltrating or AD snipers can get into positions to shoot people attacking your position in the back, setting up close to or even inside the opponent's DZ. If you're doing that, you really want to make it hard to hit your sniper. Lasiqs can use Climbing Plus to get interesting angles on the opponent to deny cover, and then go prone on the rooftop for partial cover or even total cover to avoid return fire.
So many months, so few models. But here's what I've done! The bike was so much fun I think I'll pick up the Kum box just to mess around with more colours! And for a friend, inspired by Jax from Mortal Kombat: Hoping to speed up now, as I've assembled, undercoated and base coated around 15 models. Famous last words. @Section9 , I tried a Lasiq sniper in the active turn, running up the side of the board to get angles down the opponents DZ - very good advice, thanks!
Yay progress! Got some magnetised remotes done, and a bunch of Saladins ready for holo shenanigans. Making use of oil washes to speed things up, very fun to try new things!
@archangeleong for the longest time I've wanted to engage in Saladin shell games. I don't know how useful it will be, but I will be smiling!
Superb quality, how did you find the handling of the oil paints? Did you only use them for precise shading?
