So I created some building and scenery myself out of styrofoam and similiar stuff, it looks nice enough but it doesn't weigh anything so breathing alone can move it. My ideas so far: - getting some magnetic mat and putting magnets on the scenery, probably the most elegant solution - same as above but using magnetic colour on my board instead of a mat - putting screws into the scenery or other metal? - put some rubber on the bottom of the scenery? What is your experience?
I would go with the magnet idea, frankly, because the rubber or other means of increase friction will be useless when the item has enough height (it will simply topple). The other option is to add some lead to the bottom, but really, I think the magnet solution is better unless you plan to magnetize your model's bases as well (many people do to ease the transportation logistics: instead of moving the models between several foam trays, just grab the models from the metalic shelve and place them in the metallic shelve in you pack), since it can make a bother to move all minis. As for how to implement the metallic option, I would vote for a metallic sheet if your table is used only for this kind of things, and you place the mat over it (so the scenery will also pin the mat!). Another, less big option but a little more demanding, would be to grab smaller metallic sheets, or small magnetic sheets cut the aproximate surface of the scenery you use, and simply place those pieces where you want to have the scenery, this also facilitates the storage of the magnetic sheets (directly under the scenery, with no mat inbetween).
I don't think you can avoid scenery moving a little bit. Infinity tables are very heavy on scenery and only having everything glued will prevent stuff from moving around (and even then, sometimes it's the mini that can move because of the table getting hit or the mini having an unfortunate encounter with a dice). Stating your intent regarding LoF is the best way to get around that. If you state clearly important LoF when placing a mini (I want to place this sniper here so I can see this area and this line, do we agree he can see that ?) then you avoid most of the problem if you hit a container by accident and have it obstruct your LoF.
Thank you xagroth, my models are already magnetized but that should be to much of a problem. I like to have flexible terrain so only putting metal at the places that the models go is not so easy, maybe if I put the metal sheets down first the mat over it and when the scenery could work or maybe a metall grid/sheet completly under the mat... @Arkhos94 yeah a bit moving around is ok but my buildings move way to easily...it can work but its annoying could be enough to put some screws in them I can try out
Personally I'm leaning to the rubber option, as Xagroth has pointed out it makes the scenery more likely to topple but my personal collection other than one building they are all much more broad than they are high so surface area should do a good job of stopping this from happening. Giant tower with 4x4 footprint no, giant warehouse with 12 x 8 footprint yes. Another option is just a little texture on the underside of the terrain, a blast of texture spray on the underside of a foamboard or card building can add a bit of friction and that bit can often be enough.
You might try using blue tac as well. Of course that's only temporary solution but it works quite well.
Most of my terrain has an mdf base (usually 3mm). This is mostly to add weight to them. Especially foam terrain. Certain pieces ALSO have felt (self-adhesive, but it also glues with pva to the mdf) on the corners to stop them moving. On painted boards, the pieces require a pretty solid push to move them. On mats, they hold almost as well. Also counterweights (I have a couple of buildings with attached cantilevered helipads for example. They are either counterweighted by the building, or I've ADDED mass in the form of a solid chunk of rock hidden inside the building.
Having tried the magnetic route myself with 2 different games I can't recommend it. Cost becomes a factor, buildings need at least two magnets to hold still, mats will negate the effect, painted metal boards scratch, and many folks magnetize their bases, so even if you don't it can restrict who you play with. The easiest option I've found is to use painters tape or a dress maker's pencil to mark at least 2 opposite corners of buildings. If they move they can be put back easily. Weight makes a big difference, my go to for a couple of pieces has become some 3" steel nuts from the home rehab store. They can be transported separately and then placed in the structures. This doesn't work as well with accessible interior buildings. Steel Nail Plates (not the self nailing kind) can also be used as bases to add weight. They come in multiple sizes. A quick option for weight is to turn large hex nuts into planters and just pin the building between a couple.
Exactly what I ended up using in addition to strengthening the papercraft terrain from boxed sets with IKEA honeycomb cardboard. 300g vs 30g makes a huge difference.
Depends on the surface. For something smooth like vinyl it definitely works wonders, but utterly useless for neoprene mats. For those I found that attaching a piece of flannel fabric does marvels.
If it moves and it should not, duct tape. If it does not move and it should, WD-40. Ziploc bags, of the appropriate size, generally the 1quart size, or the sandwich size, filled with sand, and placed inside the buildings. Don't use the bags with the plastic zipper/slider.
If all of these things fail, try getting a cat. Once they have corrected the terrain set up they will lay across the terrain to keep it in place.
I've been limping along with Ice Storm scenery (+ a slowly growing collection of MDF) and that stuff skitters across the table with a free will of its own. I solved this with two additions: 4 1.5 inch (40mm) washers in the bottom of each building. Carpet tape on the bottom. Carpet tape is designed to prevent carpets from slipping on bare floors and, bonus, has one adhesive side.