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Monkeysloth's Cavilcade of Infinity Terrain -- Subway entrance Model Release

Discussion in 'Scenery' started by Monkeysloth, Nov 23, 2017.

  1. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Ya, if you build an interior then it's fine but I don't think your average player would.

    Once you add in the escalator interior 49 really doesn't work well for even s2 figures as a lot of poses that make them taller then 44mm. 55mm would have been fine. Speaking of escalators the size is so a 40mm base can slip in for game play purposes. if I was trying to make them more of a realistic size I would have done 30-35mm and not quite as tall but you have to take into account the base.
     
  2. xagroth

    xagroth Mournful Echo

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    Mmmm... If you keep the 3 escalators, then you need 3 doors. Another option would be to make a 2 escalators piece (just the 3 escalators, removing one and placing space between the borders, and maybe a central pillar), allowing for 2 doors.

    My preference for no doors is in part because It feels like there is not enough space for those doors to open inwards, only outwards.
     
  3. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    I was talking based in kits I saw time ago, to be used as easy filler, or those boards that are like a spaceship, with no roofs anywhere. OTOH, if you mean usable interiors vs "hills that look like buildings", that is different story/debate.
     
  4. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Back from LVO, which was fun but tiring as my wife wanted stay about mile away from the hotel the con was at. Normally that wouldn't be a big deal but with vegas that's over 40min walk due to how they make you go through so many casinos to get anywhere.

    So I got a good about of the painting done since I've been back. I got the top pretty much done, just need to stencil in stuff in the center area. I used a filter over some shading I did. Always have issues with acrylic filters, think I don't have the contrast enough for then as I'm use to enamels and such which are more forgiving (but way worse to use indoors with an airbrush). Overall I like the look and might add some brightness to the top bit it's hard to get good contrast with terrain sometimes and make sure it doesn't draw more attention then the miniatures themselves as you want those to stand out and not the set pieces like this.

    [​IMG]

    With this side picture you'll notice some ribbing. I sanded the print down and then used a thick gloss spray to help fill in parts. Looks like I didn't do enough outer shells (basically how thick the outer walls are as the center of the prints are 90% hollow) and you're seeing some of the infill.

    [​IMG]

    Lastly I've started the interior too. Need to smooth some things so they looks less airbrushed and finish the railing of the escalators which only just got started.

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    So the model is finished enough to take some pictures and release on Thingiverse.

    I'm going to dull coat it tomorrow once the enamel wash dries and then paint up some things like advert signs to place inside and some things to make the outside more interesting. But here are some pics of the base model itself finished.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. aphexblue

    aphexblue Well-Known Member

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    Very awesome. Great idea taking from the Shadowrun game, with excellent results to.
     
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  7. realder

    realder Member

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    That is one solid piece om scenery. I really like the way you broke it down in the .stl files.

    You can print it without the escalators, paint it a bit differently and you have a small garage, or the opening of a bunker. Lots and lots of possibilities :D

    Thank you for the awesome work!
     
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  8. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I didn't even think that others would reuse the base structure for other things. Guess that's the fun of 3d printing is that's easy to do an a possibility.

    Some people in a facebook group mentioned this would be great for mechanized deployment with this piece of terrain which is awesome, didn't even realize that was a rule as none of the armies I play have it as far as I'm aware.

    While working on extra bits to make things a bit more interesting I realized that some of the things I want to put on this or other buildings I just don't have already in resin\mdf or are missing on thingiverse so I've made some quick electrical boxes. Tried to do the normal box with a lock and two more future ones with a screen interface. Not really terribly exciting as things go but if anyone has any ideas on the 3 I've got done here (doing some test prints now) feel free to chime in. I'm also going to make some various types of junction boxes, we'll see what detail I can put into them so they're not just literal boxes.

    [​IMG]

    I've also never really been happy with the available selection of benches, planters and such and during a sleepless night of looking through concept art websites I found some stuff that I like and have started modeling up what I want. Right now it's too close to what the art I found is but not sure how much I want to deviate due to how much I like it. Well see what I end up doing with things as I take it into blender to make the benches look softer and more realistic.

    The idea is to have pegs in the planter which allow for a selection of bushes (blocks that can be flocked), plants, and advertisements to be slotted in. I plan on making a couple of different layouts and might possibly make the benches modular.

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. Red Harvest

    Red Harvest Day in, Day out. Day in, Day out. Day in, DAY OUT

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    If that roof were hollow, so that you may fit LEDs -- very dim ones -- into it and illuminate the interior... There looks to be enough volume to accommodate such a thing.

    LEDs make everything better :D
     
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  10. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking of having holes in the pegs you slot things into the planter with as a light up system and then just not have a base or have it be removable. Print things, like the flock blocks, in transparent filament and you could get glowing plants. maybe the same with adds and printing on plastic.
     
  11. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    So I managed to get some time to finish off the base bench shapes. With the outside corner now done I can make pretty much what I want.

    [​IMG]

    One question though. Does the bottom part of the bench look too long? each section (outside of the inside corner) takes up 25mm x25mm x25mm with the back part of the bench 10mm thick and the seat 15mm. You can see that better in this top down perspective. Each large square in the grid is 10mm.

    [​IMG]

    I hate some of the benches, like MAS, that look like they were made for dog warriors. So I'm trying to get something actually human sized.
     
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  12. Ursun

    Ursun Tough as Nails, Grim as Old Boots

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    The boxes are great. would be cool if you could do some extra "cable from box to wall" thing that can be freely placed on any side of the box, helps to make them more interesting, especially if you have more than those 3 on the board. Or maybe a cable hanging between 2 boxes to connect them.
     
  13. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    I actually have some junction boxes with cables I want to print out this week but I'm not sure, at this scale, that printing them is the best route unless you're going for some really thick cables (which I'm also looking at). I'm thinking, just due to how FDM printers work, that using greenstuff or regular wiring is a better route. If I can get to it this week (have family in town) I'll post what the 3 different methods look like for people's opinions.
     
  14. Mob of Blondes

    Mob of Blondes Well-Known Member

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    Quick rule: measure real things, then apply 1/50 scale (100 cm becomes 2 cm in scale).
    Problem: they will look out of place with many other things, because those others are different scales, as in not proportional to themselves, not just the wrong scale "once" (door that is OKish height but absurd width). And most people don't realize how big things are, to make things more complicated.

    [​IMG]
    Maker says this thing is 85 cm tall and 130 cm wide, edge to edge, both seats and the block in middle (and declared width is 45 cm). That means 17 * 26 mm (and 9 mm per person) for the whole two seats. Each seat is 1/3 give or take, so 9 mm flat on each side (a 9*9 seat). Rough guess is that seat height is 35-40 cm, 7-8 mm. You can make the rest bigger, put planters between both seats, etc, but the dimension for human seats are what they are.

    Your 15 mm seat is >50% oversized. Swap 10 and 15 zones? Add planter zone on top?

    For cables, just use tubes, plastic string (as fishing one, eg), real wires or brass bars, or guitar strings (different cores, get whatever you think is easier to keep in place).
     
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  15. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Ya, I really don't plan out as much as I should and just go with what looks right probably because the day job is the opposite so I enjoy not planning to a degree. Going to need to pay more attention.

    Anyway I play around with some ratios over the past few days and came to liking 12 for the seat and 18 for the back. It's no 100% what it would be in real life but it looks good to the eye and the 45% part right where the two parts connect help shrink the perception of how big the seat is without making the back look too thick.

    I've also played around with adding some more detail and am liking the look. I've also beveled some of the edges to make it look like there's padding when you place more then one together.

    [​IMG]

    Been doing a bunch of test prints and they are great on their side. Trying out the square here to see how it prints as the under hang sometimes comes out rough but I didn't like the look of them less steep. But that could also be caused by me generally only printing one of these at a time which would cause the plastic to not cool adequately between layers as these are quite small. So I've got lots of things on the plate.
    [​IMG]

    If tonight's prints go well then I'll be able to quickly make some planters like the one in the background and work on the slotting system for some different things to go in them. I've also ordered a few clear colored spools to see about doing some light up designs.
     
  16. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Hey, thought I'd give an update here as it's been a bit. I'm splitting my time between terrain and painting miniatures as I really haven't figure painted in a few years and decided it was time to get back into it (nothing for Infinity yet, but will maybe next month). I'm not sure how I'll be splitting my time but I'm thinking every two weeks or so switch between the two. Even though I've been working on my painting skills I've still had a little time to get some work in on this. I've been a bit slower as I've been feeling I should learn Fusion 360 and move away from Tinkercad but really haven't had time to learn Fusion so I'm going to finish up the benches and planters then move to fusion and work on a new building idea I've got and the signs that I want to have work with this system as well.

    [​IMG]

    I've reworked several of the angels to make sure everything prints well (not significant but still want these to look good) and finished of the base planter size which is 25mmx150mm (trying to stick to the 25mm grid here where I can) and as you can see I've got a angled one and a straight planter. Next would be to make 25x100 and 25x50 sets. Lastly I need to decide on the size of the various bushes and make sure there's a variety of combinations that will work. Once I get better at both blender and Fusion I might try and make a few different plants that would be printable.

    [​IMG]

    Speaking of which I made the first bush slot into the 4 corer bench I had posted in the last updated. I sculpted in some grooves in hopes that when flocked it will give the bush a more interesting and maybe natural look (though I'll have non-sculpted cubes for those that want that perfect look). The lines are to also give some interesting look to the bushes as those wouldn't be flocked. They printed OK in the first test run but I need to make some adjustments and I think they'll look good. Also if you hook up LEDs and print the bush in a transparent plastic I think you could get a good result.

    I haven't posted any test prints as the white I've been using doesn't photograph well. When I have an update later on with the improved bushes I'll dust them with spray-paint so things are move visible.
     
  17. Usashi

    Usashi Well-Known Member

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    I must admit that the metro entrance is absolutely stunning, well executed and painted terrain piece. Now I want one as well :(
     
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  18. realder

    realder Member

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    I started a print of the metro entrance today, going with 0.1 resolution to get a nice transition on the sloping planes. It looks fantastic up close. It's a nice big piece of terrain, way bigger than it looks on the pictures. Love it!
     
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  19. Monkeysloth

    Monkeysloth Well-Known Member

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    Well I do have my brief moments of greatness. Though I did copy like 90% of it from a video game so.....maybe not that great.

    Glad someone else is making one. Sometimes you wonder out of the 200 or so people that have grabbed it how many have printed it.

    Which height are you going with? the 55mm one or 65mm?
     
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  20. Melchior

    Melchior Well-Known Member

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    I'm mostly into paper but if I had a printer I'd build it. Even started playing shadowrun Honkong for a while cause of your project.
     
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